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Mini marvel

WISE BUYER  
The still affordable way into Alfa ownership. Here’s how to go about it

  
**Why you want one**  
The svelte looking 156 saloon changed the fortunes of Alfa Romeo in the UK. The slick good looks were backed up by exceptional dynamics and fuelled by its newfound mojo and a terrific new platform on which to base other models, the firm introduced its new range of small hatchbacks in 2000 and was declared European Car of the Year. Also sharing the 156’s range of punchy Twin Spark engines, the 147 is a brilliant machine – and still very affordable. There’s terrific backing from great owners clubs and specialists, too.  
On your search, you’ll happen upon three and five-door cars with a range of trim – Turismo was standard and Lusso was proper posh. The most popular engine is the 2-litre Twin Spark, although the 105bhp 1.6 TS is eager enough. That engine was also available with 120bhp in the Lusso, courtesy of variable cam timing. The 1.9 JTD was available as either 8v 115bhp, 16v 150bhp (from 2005) or 170bhp (in the run-out Ducati Course special edition). Top of the pile for many was the 2002 GTA, with Alfa’s 250bhp 3.2-litre V6. The 147 was equipped with air-conditioning, alloys and leather on top models, the whole thing feeling nicely screwed together. The car got a 2005 facelift, with the addition of 159 and Brera styling themes, while the suspension was sharpened up. Not much could be done to improve space though. If it’s roomy a cabin you want, it’s not for you. Still tempted? Then step this way…  
  
MARKET ANALYSIS  
Numbers are in decline, and we’ve spotted more than a few in scrapyards in 2025, so now is the time to start saving the good ones. There isn’t a huge choice anyway, so get in with the owners’ clubs for the best examples. Fellow members are likely to charge you top dollar, as the cars will have no doubt been cherished. Expect to pay up to five grand for the nicest example of a Twin Spark or JTD. A look further afield and on the usual websites and forecourts and you’ll find good 1.6-litre models for as little as £1500, while a later TS or diesel will set you back just £2500. As for the GTA? Ten grand gets the best, although we’ve seen them go for a few thousand less at auction recently, so keep your eyes peeled.  
**The inspection**  
The Twin-Spark units are truly delightful, but aren’t without their issues. They tend to guzzle oil – in some cases a litre every 1000 miles.  
What doesn’t help is the fact that the cylinder head features oil jets to cool the pistons, which allows the oil to vaporise. Make sure the cambelt has been replaced every 36,000 miles (72,000 or six years on the JTD). When you’re replacing the cambelt you should fit the newer metal tensioner, not the plastic one. The 2-litre 16v has a balance belt and tensioner that will also need replacing, otherwise the belt tensioner can break, and the debris become trapped in the cambelt drive. A special camshaft locking tool is required if you change the cambelt yourself.  
Oil changes need to be done annually or every 12,000 miles, preferably using Selenia 10w40 semi-synthetic, although the slow-burn HPX 20w50 brew may reduce oil consumption on high milers. The variable valve timing variator on the TS unit can get noisy and make the engine sound like a diesel, especially if run low on oil. It screws into the end of the camshaft and costs about £250 from a main dealer and £150 from an independent. When replacing the spark plugs, be aware that there are two different lengths and you need to be careful not to overtighten the smaller of the two; also, remember to refit the earth wire at the back of the engine. As there are eight spark plugs, it’s just as well they only need replacing every 60,000 miles. Incidentally, if you spot oil in the spark plug wells, replace the cam cover gasket. JTD units are robust. If there are problems with cutting out, though, suspect the high-pressure diesel pump.

Twin Spark lump is an absolute belter of an engine.  
The storming 250bhp 3.2-litre V6 GTA is rare and its 24mpg fuel economy could rule it out for some owners. Again, oil use seems an issue and it’s important to keep an eye on the cooling system, specifically the rad, as it must do a lot of work.  
Gearboxes on all models are reasonably strong, although synchromesh can fail with age, especially on JTD models. Reconditioned units sell for around £550 from gearbox specialists, while used units sell for £100-£150. Some ’boxes also suffer shaft bearing noise, but stripping the ’box and changing the bearings solves the problem. Clutches are self-adjusting so a high biting point signifies that a new item is around the corner. Autoboxes are good, but the Selespeed paddle shift option can sometimes stick in gear or fail to shift properly. It’s not always the ’box at fault – the pump under the front wing, the actuator, trip switches or the three-piece clutch may also be to blame. On those models, check that all of the different ways of changing gear work – from the paddles to the gear knob and ‘city’ mode.

Cabin is nicely made, but check everything works.  
Like the 156, the 147 is prone to bush wear, and because Alfa doesn’t supply the bushes separately, main dealer replacements can prove pricey. It’s common to find wear in the upperand lower arms, bottom balljoints, link rods, droplinks and anti-roll bar bushes (which can knock). The top strut mounts are also a weak point – they start squeaking, and if you notice uneven tyre wear at the front this could be why. Unlike the 156, there’s been little call for replacement steering racks, but if yours should go (symptoms being a knocking sound when turning the wheel from lock-to-lock) reckon on spending £250 from an independent. Beware rusting power steering pipes. Meanwhile, the GTA is so ridiculously nose heavy, front suspension components wear quickly, and with so much power on tap, the diff takes quite a hammering. The Q2, Alfa’s Torsen mechanical limited slip differential, is worth having if one’s not been fitted as an option already. Some 147 owners have experienced ABS warning lights appearing, usually due to adjustment on the brake pedal switch. Setting it up properly is a tricky job requiring feeler gauges. The only brake malady concerns sticking rear pads – simply free them off and apply a small quantity of copper-based grease to the back surfaces.  
Inside, the 147 was well made but look for tired trim as it isn’t that easy to find. The driver’s side window regulators can fail, while wiper motors have been known to go wrong. Poor connections and dodgy switches are normal, as are mysterious blinking dash lights. With that in mind, start by checking for a failing battery – it’s the cause of many an issue for a car of this era.  
‘All the spirit of an Alfa, but easy to live with’

One of the greatest badges of all.  
  
**WHAT TO PAY**  
**PROJECT** £500-£1500  
**GOOD** £1500-£4000  
**EXCELLENT** £4000-£10,000  
**TECH SPEC**  
**ENGINE** 1970CC/4-CYL/OHC  
**POWER** 148BHP@6300RPM  
**TORQUE** 133LB FT@3800RPM  
**GEARBOX** 5-SPEED MAN  
**TOP SPEED** 129MPH   
**0-60MPH** 9.3SEC   
**ECONOMY** 31.7MPG  
  
**WHAT WE SAY** **THE ONE TO BUY**  
**James Walshe…**  
This completely outrageous little 150mph shopping cart is all about the engine, isn't it? All you have to do is stamp on the throttle and your ears are assaulted by the melodic howl of Alfa Romeo’s majestic 3.2-litre V6. Sure, the GTA isn’t blessed with the finesse of a Focus and while it lacks the grip of an Impreza and slickness of a Civic Type-R, who cares? The GTA still feels sharp and agile and delivers the kind of maniacal thrill that few others can. We should be glad they made it. It’s delightfully unhinged.

  
**Matt Tomkins…**  
I'll confess here to rather enjoying the combination of excellent chassis dynamics and lower power output, so will seek to combine the 147’s good looks with that frugal oil burner, please. I'll delight in conserving momentum and exploiting the suspension to the full once I've fitted some fresh bushes. I might even make good use of the 1300kg braked towing capacity to ensure I have the best looking rig in the paddock! I’d enjoy those oft-repurposed seats, too, which ensure it’s a comfortable place to be behind the wheel.

  
**Danny Hopkins…**  
I have owned three of these little beauties and the current example, a lowly 1.6 three-door, is the best of them. Three doors means a nice taut looking body and the 1.6-litre engine revs wonderfully; above 3500rpm you just don’t notice its lack of cubic capacity. The cabin of the 147 is majestic –it's an environment where the driver is king from where the handling and roadholding turn this brilliant little shopping trolley into a superb driver’s pet. The 147's styling is maturing extremely well, too.  
  
**USEFUL CONTACTS**  
**Alfa Workshop**, :a[alfaworkshop.co.uk]{href='https://alfaworkshop.co.uk' }  
**Alfaholics**, :a[alfaholics.com]{href='https://alfaholics.com' }  
**Autolusso,** :a[autolusso.co.uk]{href='https://autolusso.co.uk' }  
**EB Spares Ltd**, :a[ebspares.co.uk]{href='https://ebspares.co.uk' }

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2000-2010 Alfa Romeo 147

THE BIG RESTORATION  
It took six years to find, one donor vehicle and over four years to rebuild, but David O’Leary ended up with his dream car  
**WORDS** DANNY HOPKINS **PHOTOS** JONATHAN JACOB

  
**THE RESTORER**  
David O'Leary lives in in Handsworth, Sheffield. He is a retired bus fitter/mechanic who is also restoring a classic motorbike. He loves classic Renaults and problem solving… a good combination.  
**AS FOUND**

Immaculate bay with homemade wheel insert.

  
**D**avid O’Leary’s Renault 16 GL rolled off the line in 1969, so is one of the last of the early 16s and, as such, is super rare. It came to him on a nostalgic whim: ‘I used to work on one in Australia. I always enjoyed how it drove and so I thought “I’ll have one of those”. I must have been searching for one for six years before this car came up for sale on eBay.’  
It was located in Malvern, so David went to have a look at it before bidding. ‘I didn’t win the auction as somebody else out-bid me. However, when the winning bidder turned up, he took one look at the car and said he didn’t want it after all. Fortunately, I’d messaged the seller and asked that if it didn’t work out, could he let me know. And he did.’ David was the only bidder who’d actually been to look at it, so the seller knew he wasn’t going to mess him about. ‘I got it for £650’. Sounds like a bargain, David shakes his head as he says: ‘Well, in my naivety and excitement I thought I could just stick some sills on it and run it as a bit of an oily-rag, but four and a half years later, here we are’.  
‘It was a toss up between the spares car and this one’  
The car’s pre restoration story was telling. ‘The back story of the car is that a gent – we’ll call him grandad – bought the car new in Exeter. He then gave it to his son, who lived in Malvern, who parked it up in 1982 in a lean-to. I suspect the head gasket might have gone. Hence why it was seized up. I bought the car off the grandson, so it had been in one family until I got it in 2018… but in one shed for more than 35 years.’ One side appeared to be in worse order than the other, this was probably the side most exposed in the lean-to.

A puffing cherub and a foot… heater controls!

  
The reality set in once David had taken the engine out – which was seized solid – and started looking under the wings. ‘The entire footwell was missing’. At this point, Exhibit A is presented to the court – David holds up a proper bit of rust, not just your common or garden standard rust, but a sizable chunk. He says: ‘This is what they call your web. This is the inner sill and the outer sill, and this web is what gives it all its strength’. Inspecting the unbelievably frilly remains reveals the web was only held together by air. ‘It gets better than that. This is the rear suspension mounting point’ he says ruefully holding up another chunk. ‘The sill should continue through to the wheelarch and then the rear torsion bar suspension all bolts to that. Rust here is what used to kill these cars back in the day. You have to take all the suspension off to repair the mounting points. That’s what I was confronted with when I started working on it’.  
The true extent of the task that lay ahead was huge but David rolled his sleeves up and cracked on. ‘Failure wasn’t an option. I’d convinced my wife that I could do it and I’d got my mind set that there was going to be a lot of fabrication, just not as much as I anticipated.

  
Luckily, I found a donor car.’ Initially he was just going to pinch the rear lower quarters from it but there were many more parts on it that he could use. ‘I cut a lot of pieces off that and grafted them onto this car, which saved me a lot of work.’  
In terms of spare parts, Renault 16’s are not well-served, ‘Buy whatever you can, when you can and hoard them. Replacement wings and bonnets simply don’t exist so it was a case of grafting bits off the donor car, and even then, these wings aren’t off the donor car. I had to use bits of my original car to repair these ones.’ At least all the grafted parts were genuine Renault. ‘The only aftermarket parts on the body are the sills, which were a pain as they were over-sills, so they’re made just that bit bigger, and you have to make them fit.’  
The donor car came from a chap in the club called Mike Stokes. ‘Initially, I bought the sills and a few other bits, but then Mike sadly passed away, and his stock was being sold off. I went to Spalding to buy everything I thought I’d need in the future and, while I was there, there were two 16s that were going to be scrapped, but I ended up paying £50 for the entire donor car.’ Back in Sheffield David realised it was a toss-up between saving the original car or the donor vehicle, ‘but mine had the better history and is an earlier model. I could have quite easily saved the other one instead. But I’d have still been repairing this one if I hadn’t bought the other car’. £50 well spent!  
Stripping the car down wasn’t the starting point, however, as the first big job on the to-do list ended up being the engine. ‘My brother and I spent a good day or two trying to get it to unseize it. We were putting steam into the bores, left diesel in it for weeks, but it just wouldn’t move. A machining guy that I know told me he was planning to retire, so I knew I had to get it to him before he did. I took the head and block down to him and he removed the the con-rods. I sourced new pistons, then he used his press and said it took ten tons to get the pistons out of the bores!’

  
Then I came the big body strip-down, ‘I think it had just had a service and MOT when it was originally laid up, because all the brakes were like brand-new, even after all that time. I think someone had spent a lot of money on it and then the head gasket had gone, so they probably thought “I’m not spending anymore.” Someone had obviously tried to take care of it, as wherever rust was starting to come through they’d brushed it with grease.’ Sadly, the time it had stood took its toll on the areas that hadn’t been greased.  
‘With the machining done, I built the engine up straight away. It’s a 1470cc pre-crossflow engine. Getting engine parts isn’t too bad, but the biggest problem I found for this was finding gaskets for the carburettor. You just can’t get them. I ended up buying a brand-new carburettor on eBay, which was a real stroke of luck and that negated that big problem. I also found new rubber seals in a box of bits at Beaulieu. Seriously that was a crucial find. Even in France they are rare.’ Proof that the International Autojumble can still do its thing.

Flick a lever, LHD head lights. Brilliant.

  
Even so, David is still on the hunt for parts. ‘I’m still working on it. If you look closely, you’ll see there are bolts missing from the back of the bumper. That’s because they’re later bumpers and the brackets are 15mm deeper on later ones. What you see here is the original middle, but as these are later ones, it’s kicking them out as they don’t line up, so I’ve had to repair my originals, which are actually still at the chrome platers at the moment. A lot of people say everything on a Renault 16 fits a 16, but it doesn’t.’ David explains that ball joints and bonnets are different, early wings have different indicators. The bumpers are different. Even the clutch cables are different, ‘so you have to be really careful with parts.’  
With the engine rebuilt, David began body repairs: ‘I pulled the wings and bonnet off and started on a corner, then just worked my way around. All of the repairs were done on my patio at home, under a tarpaulin cover. That’s one of the reasons it took four and half years. The weather played its part’. Asking how he got that past his wife, he laughs: ‘I told her it wouldn’t be that long, that I would be out and she could have the space back in a few months. Thankfully she has been extremely understanding.’  
Bit by bit, the project progressed. Fortunately, David had welded before. He says: ‘I had done bits before. I trained as a fitter on the buses. While I wasn’t trained in bodywork, over the years I had got into welding. I enjoy welding and making panels. That’s the fun part. I don’t like filling and rubbing panels down or prepping for paint. I enjoy the fabrication.’

And yes, one wheelbase is longer than the other.

  
With the metal repairs done and dusted, David turned to an old friend for the paint. ‘I coerced him into painting it and took it over to his place. Once it was done, we came back here and assembled it. I got the doors back on and the windows fitted first as I needed it to be watertight. Actually, thinking about it, the engine went in before the rest of it went for paint. We painted the engine bay here under the cover. Once it was watertight, the interior went back in. ‘The only areas I had retrimmed were the bottoms of the seats, everything else is original. I made the centre console, and I did have some mats made, but it’s still got the original carpets underneath.’  
‘Basically, I tried to keep as much of the original car as possible. Even the numberplates. I removed the letters and replaced the backing. When I take it to shows, people ask if it’s been restored and that gives me so much pride. It’s not a trailer queen. I’ve done 1200 miles to France in it.  
‘This has taken me four and half years, but I retired and had two years solid on it. If I hadn’t retired at that point, I’d still be working on it. It’s been a real labour of love.’ The 60th anniversary of a remarkable car could not be celebrated by a more fitting endeavour.  
  
**Here’s how David did it…**

  
**1 JUNE 2015**  
The 1470cc engine was seized. Really seized. It took a 10-ton press to move the pistons – the last job for David’s engineer friend.

  
**2 MAY 2016**  
The spares car that David bought was actually in slightly better condition than the car he was restoring. He used sections from it in the end… lots of them!

  
**3 JAN 2017**  
Hundreds of tiny individual panels ended up being grafted on the the 16. Under the white paint it is a patchwork of genius.

  
**4 MAY 2017**  
David also ended up doing a lot of his own fabrication including this torsion bar retainer. Seen with the pattern.

  
**5 MARCH 2018**  
Bodywork complete, ready for paint preparation on the patio… a patio that would be family-friendly again after some four years.

60 years of the 16 in 2025. Feels modern.  
  
**TECH SPEC: 1969 Renault 16GL**  
**Engine** 1470CC/4-cyl/OHV  
**Power** 54bhp@5000rpm  
**Torque** 108lbft@2800rpm  
**Gearbox** 4-speed manual  
**0-60mph** 19sec  
**Top speed** 90mph  
**Fuel economy** 30mpg  
  
**WHAT'S IT LIKE TO DRIVE**

  
I've driven a Renault 16 once before, but that was 24 years ago, so sinking back into the comfy vinyl driver’s seat and relearning Renault 16 is a fresh experience. The first thing that immediately makes itself apparent is how comfortable the car is, both in terms of driving position and seat comfort. Flick the engine – a sewing machine impersonator – on, engage first gear and float away.  
On the road manners are astonishing. The 16 seemingly hovers and leans in corners, but without panicking the horses. Everything feels light and precise, but also soft and malleable. The ride is better than any car I have ever driven bar a Citroën. It simply ignores bumps and undulations – it’s more comfortable than my dad's Jag and that rides on air. The 1200L engine is perky enough to keep up with modern traffic and, once you have learned the controls, it is a delightfully intuitive experience to pilot this magnificent piece of road history.  
It’s not dynamic, you don’t get much feedback from the road, but that’s not really the point. This is a practical work of genius that can take you to the moon and back without stress.  
  
**USEFUL CONTACTS**  
Renault Owners Club, :a[renaultownersclub.com]{href='https://renaultownersclub.com' }  
Renault 16 Shop, :a[renault16shop.com]{href='https://renault16shop.com' }  
  
**Restorer of the Year 2026**  
Restorer of the Year celebrates the shed heroes who, every year, produce extraordinary work breathing life back into basket cases and bringing classics that are going nowhere back to the road. With our sponsors Anglia Car Auctions, we’ll scour the land to bring you the very best then, early in 2026, you get to nominate your favourite restos. From your top ten nominations our panel of experts will select the top five nominees so that you can meet the winner at the **PC** Classic Car and Restoration show at the NEC next March.

Sweet 16!

Tech solutions and real world tips  
  
**Matt Tomkins**  
**PROJECTS EDITOR**  
Our workshop puppet master, Matt has a penchant for restoring British classics in particular.  
This month Has been preparing for the race season with an oil change for the Seven and a service for his car trailer.  
  
**Rich March**  
**PRO BUFFER**  
New recruit Rich runs UK Detailing Academy. Our expert at making things shiny.  
**This month** Is getting down and dirty with some hot tips for convertible roof cleaning and long-term maintenance.  
  
**Ed Hughes**  
**WORKSHOP GENIUS**  
A former teacher, Ed singlehandedly keeps a fleet of obscure classics on the road. He’s never owned a modern car and intends keep it that way.  
**This month** Has been wondering where to start with a pair of extremely rusty windscreen pillars…  
  
**Nigel Clark**  
**DIY RESTORER**  
Nigel’s driveway achievements rival those of pro mechanics. He’s our resident Triumph and BMW expert.  
**This month** Has been enjoying the warmer weather and lighter, longer evenings, offering an opportunity to be out in the classics more often.

  
**MISFIRES**  
Why does my car misfire?  
**Q I’ve taken my Renault Clio out of storage. When revved it drops briefly onto two cylinders, with large sparks jumping between the plug caps and the engine. Suggestions?**  
**Mark Holdsworth, Keighley**

  
  
CONDEMNED?  
Don’t automatically bin plugs and HT leads – they’re usually quite innocent. Keep a few old spares for testing.  
BUT ARE THEY REAL?  
Always buy spark plugs from a reputable retailer. There are lots of counterfeit ones around.  
BANG!  
Backfires, either from air intake or exhaust, are usually caused by a misdirected spark or a suddenly-weak mixture.  
**Ed says**  
**A** We'll look at a variety of possibilities – though we think your problem is simple. When speeding the engine up, pressure in the cylinder is much higher. This requires a higher voltage to make a spark jump the plug gap. If the gaps are too large – if you haven't serviced them since last Spring – the spark finds it easier to escape via the dirt and damp on the outside of the caps and plugs. Most misfires and backfires are a result of sparks taking an easier path to earth. Unless caps and leads are physically deteriorated or the rotor arm burned, it'll be enough to clean everything with a petrol-moistened rag. Make sure plug gaps are correct and if the electrodes are rounded and worn, replace them. Most misfires appear under load or when accelerating. A loss of power or roughness suggests one cylinder's going down; a giant hesitation points to some common part – usually the rotor arm or coil. If you find no fault in the ignition, it's possible the fuel system can't keep up. Examine fuel supply lines, pump and carburettor. It's a likely symptom if one of a pair of carbs is not working, or if carbs are badly-balanced.  
A constant misfire, even when idling, is easy to find. Using insulated pliers, pull off each HT lead in turn. The engine slows when a good one is removed, but remains the same when you've identified the wrong 'un. Try substituting one plug or lead at a time to isolate the problem. You can swap them between cylinders if you have no spares. If the problem remains in that cylinder, you may have valve trouble (clearance; burned) or a large air leak (manifold gasket; servo etc).  
  
**MATT SAYS**  
One useful diagnostic tip I picked up amid a late night breakdown is to open the bonnet in the pitch dark and watch the HT leads as the engine runs. You'll see the high voltage causes the ends to glow. Any extra-bright areas, hotspots or sparks indicate something needs your attention.  
  
**PEUGEOT 106**  
DIAGNOSTICS MADE SIMPLE  
**Q Can you offer any advice on how to read error codes off my 1992 Peugeot 106?**  
**James Peters, Lowestoft**  
**Ed says**

It’s like a Year Nine school project!  
**A** You should find a two-pin plug behind the headlamp, by the ECU. Insert a paperclip into pin 2. Connect a red LED, resistor and an earth wire as shown. Earth the wire for a few seconds then release it. The unit will flash error codes through the LED: (long flash) - (short flash) (short flash) indicates 1-2, or code 12 – which announces the start of the error codes, flashed in the same two-digit form. It ends with code 11. Write them down (they repeat three times before moving to the next) and find the codes that apply to the ECU on your car (usually Bosch or Marelli). Clear existing codes by earthing pin 2 of the diagnostic plug for 10 seconds. If the car has a keypad immobiliser, you'll have to unlock it before starting work.  
  
**BRAKING SYSTEMS**  
Given a brake!  
**Q** **Will a remote brake servo improve my Morris Minor's awful brakes?**  
**Nic Kellow, Rugby**

Servos are useful – but not as a sticking plaster for derelict brakes.  
**Ed says**  
**A** It's hard to judge from here whether your brakes are 'awful' by modern standards, or just awful. A Minor – and most classics for that matter – should have brakes that are adequate. In other words, they don't grab, routinely lock wheels or pull to one side, or give you palpitations every time you have to pull up sharply. Non-servo brakes require your physical effort to make them work, but it shouldn't be a Herculean task.  
That said, if you mostly drive more modern machinery, then a servo will make the Morris more user-friendly. Modern brakes are so sharp that we'd advise anyone in a classic to give extra stopping distance at all times. Your servo will need some replumbing of the brake lines (and subsequent bleeding) and the insertion of a vacuum take-off in the inlet manifold. Before proceeding, thoroughly inspect the brakes looking for seized or leaking wheel cylinders and master cylinder, shoes contaminated with brake fluid , grease or oil, excessive shoe wear, correct adjustment and drums (or discs) that are scored or otherwise heavily worn.  
Routinely inspect them after any period of storage, which is when cylinders tend to rust solid or start leaking. Change brake fluid every two years.  
  
**TOURING**  
The trip of a lunchtime  
**Q I'm planning a gastronomic tour of Italy in my Lancia Delta. What tools and spares should I pack?**  
**Henry Newell, Berkshire**

A small selection of useful bits is reassuring.  
**Ed says**  
**A** We'll generalise for anyone, taking any car, anywhere. Take a high-vis vest for each occupant, a warning triangle, wheel wrench and jack/trolley jack. Find a decent spare tyre! Loosen wheel nuts and retorque them correctly to avoid finding them seized solid. Take a tyre pump or inflator plus a reliable pressure gauge. Carry a mostly-full fuel can, brake fluid, engine and gear oil and water or coolant – classic-friendly varieties are hard to find on major routes. Take working gloves and rags. Make sure you have a fan belt, rotor arm, points and condenser (where fitted) and a spare spark plug and long HT lead. Consider a fuel pump, coil and maybe a water pump; other items if you have them – electronic ignition amplifier, spare electronic distributor, ECU, sensors, head gasket kit etc. They're more useful in the car than at home. Even if you can't fit them, a mechanic can. Speaking of which, take tools according to your skill level. As a basic, we'd suggest good quality slotted screwdrivers: large, small and miniature electrical; Philips no.1 and 2; pliers, wire cutters (plus electrical wire and a wire coat hanger), a spark plug wrench and an appropriate set of spanners (up to about 1924mm or ¾ to one inch) to fit your car. Take a head torch to save damaging your phone. More advanced DIYers should consider overalls, a socket set and maybe a torque wrench, plus Torx or other special bits. If you know your car well, take selected sizes of spanner and socket, rather than the whole set. Give the engine bay a clean-up, to make quick inspections and minor repairs less grimy.  
It's worth remembering that a thousand-mile trip, say, would have been an undemanding feat for most classics when new. The best thing you can do to ensure success is to service the car a month beforehand and then use it intensively, attending to any issues that arise along the way. By the time the holiday comes round, you'll have great confidence in the machine.  
  
**TOOLS**  
CARELESS TORQUE  
**Q I have a ½in torque wrench, range 28Nm to 200Nm. I'm thinking of buying a 'baby' ¼in one – but would I use it?**  
**Miklós Reményi, Boston**

Even strut top nuts require only very modest torque.  
**Ed says**  
**A**Yes. Anything M8 (or equivalent) or below is way below the lower limit of the larger torque wrench, and it's easy to strip threads if the manufacturer has only bothered to make them strong enough for the expected torque setting. Typically M8 (13mm hex) is 16 to 21Nm, depending on application and M6 as low as 5-7Nm. Not only do threads become stripped and bolts snapped, but castings are permanently distorted by overtightening.  
  
**ELECTRICS**  
Mixed messages  
**Q My Renault 19's fuel gauge reads almost empty, most of the time, and the warning lamp doesn't work. Any ideas?**  
**Becca Roberts, Llandudno**  
**Ed says**  
**A** It sounds like a problem with the tank sender unit – specifically we think it's lost its earth connection. It may have just fatigued at one end and broken, or it may have corroded away – it depends where it's mounted. It may earth to a screw in, say a cover panel under the rear seat or maybe it shares an earth with one of the rear lights.  
  
**TYRES**  
Tread carefully!  
**Q My Ford Focus has winter tyres on it. Should I continue to use them as the weather warms up?**  
**Andrew Norris, Kendal**  
**Ed says**

Seasonal tyres differ in tread and compound.  
**A**Winter tyres are soft, to grip at low temperatures, and have lots of tread blocks and sipes to cut into and disperse mud, slush and surface water. In summer, you'll probably find them noisy, a bit squirmy and – paradoxically – a little too grippy for spirited driving. They'll also wear more rapidly. However, if you're just trundling around, you're unlikely to notice any of this. If annual mileage is low, it's hardly worth having two sets of tyres ageing badly in the garage: just wear out the ones on the car. If you cover a high mileage, however, we think you should probably swap them over. Get a secondhand set of wheels to put them on.  
  
**IGNITION SYSTEMS**  
IS RESISTANCE FUTILE?  
**Q My Triumph GT6 starts immediately, then dies when I release the key to the 'run' position.**  
**Steven Knight, Dundalk**  
**Ed says**  
**A** Your car has ballast ignition. It's an aid to reliable starting. The coil (resistance 1 - 2) is rated 6 to 9V. In normal running, it's fed by the 'ballast' resistor which prevents the coil being overloaded. When starting, the ballast resistor is bypassed – sending full battery voltage to the coil. With a good battery, the coil is overdriven, giving a strong spark. With a tired battery, the coil still receives the required 6-9V delivering an adequate spark. It sounds like your ballast resistor has failed so the coil only runs when directly supplied. In an emergency, you can wire coil + straight to battery +, but just temporarily. Most ballast resistors are in a ceramic block near the coil, but some  
Triumph and other BL cars use a length of resistance wire between ignition switch and coil. This looks like any other wire. Check for a loose connection or wire broken / corroded at the crimp terminal. The contacts that bypass the ballast resistor are usually found on the starter solenoid.  
  
**FLOOR PAINT**  
TOTALLY FLOORED  
**Q I want to paint my garage floor. What should I use?**  
**Todd Leymann, Diss**  
**Ed says**  
**A** There are three options: water-based acrylic, oil-based polyurethane and two-part epoxy. Notionally expensive, the epoxy is by far the most durable, and economical to apply. The others are fine for cupboards, but the heavy traffic of a confined work space will soon destroy them. Follow the instructions to the letter, especially when it comes to priming/pre-sealing the existing surface. Some concrete constantly moults and may need vacuuming, then pre-sealing with a dilute PVA solution, or diluted floor paint. If very rough, a screed coat may be needed. If the floor's contaminated with oil, you'll need to do with it what you can: scraping, wire-brushing and degreasing.  
However, it may still cause problems with long-term adhesion. Finally, pick a good colour. White will be ruined after a week, but a light grey will reflect almost as much light – important in a small space.  
  
READER'S TIPS  
When poking a nut onto a stud using a socket and long extension, pack the socket out with more nuts, or stick the nut in with blu-tack etc. You can then apply some force to wriggle it onto the thread.  
**Jon Hamer, Huddersfield**  
Sending an air cleaner for powdercoating? Block the breather inlet first: you'll never get the sand out otherwise!  
**Andy Long, Belfast**  
  
**FAILURE OF THE MONTH**  
Ed chickens out!  
When the aluminium threads went on the brake union (left) I found another, helpfully in cast iron (right). Problem solved… until I cleaned and examined it. It was completely home-made from a ring of steel and three separate unions, brazed together. The holes in the steel ring were all wonky. I thought about it… but not for long.

June 2025: Ask Our Experts

HEAD TO HEAD  
Two of our favourite Eighties hot saloons do battle – but which is best?

  
**Alfa Romeo 75 V6**  
**ENGINE** 2959cc/V6/DOHC  
**POWER** 188bhp@5800rpm  
**TORQUE** 180lb ft@4000rpm  
**GEARBOX** 5-speed manual  
**0-60MPH** 7.5sec  
**TOP SPEED** 138mph  
**ECONOMY** 18-24mpg  
  
**Mercedes-Benz 190E 2.5-16**  
**ENGINE** 2498cc/4-cyl/DOHC  
**POWER** 197bhp@6200rpm  
**TORQUE** 176lb ft@4500rpm  
**GEARBOX** 3-speed automatic  
**0-60MPH** 7.2sec  
**TOP SPEED** 144mph  
**ECONOMY** 18-26mpg

  
**H**ot hatches stole the headlines in the early Eighties, but it was also decade in which affordable high-performance saloons clawed their way to prominence. Interest in go-faster three-box designs was high but it was a wish to enter the 190E into motorsport that led Mercedes-Benz to ask Cosworth to work on a suitable engine for its compact saloon. Originally envisaged for rallying, the 190E 2.3-16 found its natural home in touring cars instead, starting in 1984. Homologation rules meant a road-going version needed development.  
It was launched with quite some fanfare – Mercedes invited a group of F1 legends – both young and old – to a one-off race at the then-new Nürburgring GP circuit. And new boy on the block Ayrton Senna ended up trouncing the lot of them.  
Meanwhile, Alfa Romeo briefly forgot its financial struggles to celebrate its 75th birthday in 1985 with the appropriately named 75. It was Alfa’s last offering before Fiat took the Milanese company over, and thus has something of a special place with enthusiasts, especially in V6 form. The 75 offered superb performance and was also packed with retro tech. There was even an onboard computer, which was quite radical for the time. It too was a regular performer on track. Today, both cars tick a lot of boxes, and (especially in the case of the Alfa Romeo) have price tags that still make them relatively attainable as modern classics. But just how well do these hot saloons compare with each other four decades after their sparring Eighties heyday?  
  
**Mercedes-Benz 190E 2.5-16**

  
There’s something vaguely demonic about the Mercedes-Benz 190E 2.5-16. Especially in menacing blue-black metallic. Its brooding persona is relieved only by the sparse areas of brightwork on the front grille and the alloys. Clean lined and balanced, it doesn’t want to draw too much attention to what it’s capable of. The bodykit is subtle, only the rear spoiler hints that something a bit more special is going on but, by Eighties standards, it’s very restrained. Later evolutions would sprout bigger wheelarches and massive spoilers, but in its purest and earliest form, the 190E just doesn’t need to show off.  
Inside, the sober theme continues. A bank of additional gauges in the centre console is the main pointer to the go-faster Mercedes’ secrets, but apart from them, only the checked seats are a major departure from the usual conservatism. Start the engine and… there’s very little sense of drama. The four-pot whispers away quietly in the background, and even blipping the throttle fails to provoke the sort of raucous response that you feel something tweaked by Cosworth – and with a motorsport pedigree – should have. Where’s the roar, the shriek, the anger?

  
It’s not immediately apparent when you get underway either. It is extraordinarily smooth for a big-capacity four, feeling like it has at least two more cylinders than there really are. Ride quality is equally silky – the suspension does a masterful job of soaking up knocks before they reach the cabin. The Benz is not floaty in any way, though. To properly exploit the automatic 190E, you need to move the switch by the side of the gear selector from ‘E’ (Economy) to ‘S’ (Sport). And when you do, the car suddenly, and finally, becomes alive, like a sudden injection of adrenaline. Although it’s only the gearbox's programming that's been altered, the whole car feels tighter. There’s a polite pause while kickdown takes a while to think about what it’s being asked to do, but once there, you're catapulted forward on a wave of abundant torque. Sadly it doesn't last long though, and the result is a car that seems to hide its rampant speed from your senses as soon as they pop up.

  
On corners, the Cosworth-tuned Mercedes feels really unflappable; sure-footed and safe thanks to the big lumps of rubber and its low stance. That means predictable handling – even tight bends hold little fear, although there’s perhaps a hint of understeer if you’re a little too adventurous. But once in tune with the 190E, there’s no need for over-enthusiasm, because the brakes are so responsive they allow you to place the car on the road perfectly. This touring car for the road may have excellent performance, but it’s reigned in within well-engineered parameters for the minimum of drama.

  
In contrast to the Mercdes, the Alfa Romeo makes it patently obvious it’s all about the speed. The body kit is much more pronounced than on the 190E, making it look like a riotous racetrack refugee. There’s no beating around the bush here – this is full-bore Eighties aggression. This car was Alfa Romeo’s 75th birthday present to itself and its fans, and it intended to create something a bit special. The blocky, modular dash matches the exterior lines, but it’s how Alfa has laid things out that really sparks the curiosity. The handbrake is an enormous U-handle that looks like you should use two hands to pull it up. Bizarrely, the electric window switches are up in the roof, the door handles are triggers and the radio is placed right down at the very bottom of the centre console, in front of the gear lever.

  
From the moment you fire up the V6, it does its best to constantly remind you it’s there. It has a deep, clearly audible growl that pervades the cabin and encourages you to make the most of it. And, unlike on the Mercedes-Benz, toeing the accelerator just makes it sound better still. Already, the Alfa feels like the faster machine, even though the stats don’t bear this out. Its bass-heavy soundtrack gives it an all-action flavour.  
Having a manual gearbox helps. The free-revving engine encourages you to hold on to the changes later, just to hear that delicious noise. The 75 also feels more responsive than the 190E, both at your right foot on the throttle and your left arm on the gearlever. Change quality is variable on these cars, but this one's been rebuilt, and is as good as it should be. It can be snicked quickly through the short-throw gate, almost begging you to play with it – a delight when allied to its glorious engine.

  
The slightest pressure on the throttle urges the Alfa forward. You’d swear it has the better performance of the pair, although the figures say otherwise – probably because it's so vibrant, and telegraphs such a wonderful soundtrack at revs, full and richly timbred. There’s lots of feedback through the steering wheel, broadcasting the road surface like a wasabi-fed cockerel's morning call. The firm ride is jarring over some bumps, but is well damped. The brakes need a hefty prod to give their best. The Alfa can be tricky in the corners – even at moderate speeds, you can feel the rear get a little twitchy, especially in the wet. Make sure you keep your wits about you, at least in the twisty bits.  
Intimidating? Maybe, but you'll be grinning from ear to ear after you've tackled a favoured B-road at high speed. Then you'll want – sorry, need – to go back and do it again, and again, and again. The Alfa's a gateway drug to pure petrolhead addiction.

  
  
**THE DEBATE**  
**DANNY SAYS…** **ALFA WINS**  
Astonishing to think it’s 40 years old, but the 75 doesn’t feel it when you get behind the wheel. The noise, the sense of occasion, the passion… all constant emotional companions, along with the imminent sense of danger. That’s why it wins for me.  
The 190 is too good. Too normal. I’ve owned two 190s and they were superb at being cars. I used them daily and they served faithfully. I’ve never owned a 75, but boy…  
I would love to. Having driven one over many miles on a photoshoot, I became an immediate fanboy. Few fast saloons have ever made me feel less boring. I will never forget driving an Alfa Romeo 75 –it nearly killed me on several occasions -and I want more of it please.

  
**JAMES SAYS…** **MERCEDES WINS**  
Yes, that Alfa engine is one of the all-time greats, and while I’m not a fan of the 75’s wonky styling, it makes the 190E look boring. However, I would walk away from the Italian. In fact, I’d run. I just don’t have time for the inevitable hassle. To own, the Merc’s quality shames all other cars –moderns included. From tight shut-lines and the reassuring thud of the door as it closes to the incomparable logic of the cabin layout. And then you floor the throttle and the German goes wild. Its power delivery is effortlessly ferocious, yet it’s unflappable in the bends. There’s Eighties naffness here and that, for me, makes the 2.5-16 one of the best performance cars of the decade.

  
**WANT TO OWN ONE?**  
**MERCEDES Mark Knight, Worcestershire**

  
It is a lovely car to drive, and it’s very involving. I am a big fan of the wolf in sheep’s clothing because, other than the rear spoiler, there’s very little to tell people what this car actually is. Being an auto, you can use it as an ordinary car to potter around in but it’s also very responsive. I always had a thing about the Cosworth because James Hunt did the first UK road test of one and called it the best-handling car in Britain. It’s been a good car to own; they’re pretty bulletproof and have a great reputation for reliability. I bought an ordinary 190E to use as an everyday car. Tips for buying? The single arm wiper mechanism requires greasing, often skipped. Inside, check for lifting door cards, cracked dash and all electrics. Uneven tyre wear suggests the car has been in an accident and not repaired properly. The earlier 2.3-litre cars have a single timing chain, which needs to have been changed every 60,000 to 70,000 miles. Oil changes every 5000 miles are also paramount. The 2.5-litre cars have a more resilient duplex chain.  
**ALFA Harvey Smith, Gloucestershire**

  
'I’ve owned my Alfa Romeo 75 for two years – I was looking to replace my Sud Sprint and nearly bought a 155, but then I saw an advert for this and there wasn't much looking back. It’s fast and furious, and looks fast even standing still. If you potter around, it’s fine, but it’s when you reach the upper end that it comes alive. You do need to be a bit careful in the rain, though. Buying tips? Check for rust in the usual places. If the control centre inside isn’t working as it should, suspect a faulty transducer. Rear brake calipers can seize, especially on little-used cars, and they’re inboard items too. A light vibration from the transmission at idling can be caused by faulty rubber Hardy discs, which connect the engine to the gearbox. A knocking noise when pulling away points to worn mountings or a bearing on its way out – get someone to see if the rear wheels move forward before the rest of the chassis when pulling away.  
  
**AND THE WINNER IS?**  
‘The Alfa is a flawed gem, but one you’ll love’  
The Alfa is the firecracker of the pair, with fingertip-twitching steering feedback, raspy V6 engine note and eye-popping styling. It's a Jack Russell, pulling at the lead, trying to take you into the next bend with a shouty bark. It's certainly got the looks and a reputation for brittle reliability, but most 75s you'll find will have been cared-for. Rare cars now, and prices will only increase as the demand for Eighties cars grows.  
The 190E may lack the hardcore immediacy of the Alfa Romeo but its thrills come in its ability to cover vast distances at ICBM-like speeds. It’s bomb-proof and you feel invulnerable to anything that might be thrown at you. The 190E is also the car that's shown most growth in the past few years. The best have sprinted towards more than £20k. The 190E is more in demand now than it was when new – it's a car first, and a fast car second. The Alfa Romeo 75, however, is a flawed gem, and one you'll love. Consequently, in a head versus heart decision, we'll take the 75. It's a modern classic that will really satisfy your driving passion, but thanks to great specialist support and rising demand, it's a car that also stacks up financially.

Booting it!

ME AND MY RESTO  
**Andy Ibbotson’s** epic resto, from barn find to Beaulieu!  
**INTERVIEW** MATT TOMKINS **PHOTOS** MATT HOWELL

  
**M**y son, Sam, first came across the van while walking public rights of way at work. It was just a mile from my house, as luck would have it, in a barn on a farm. Regular readers will know from my _Staff Car Sagas_ that I’m a long-term Morris Minor fan, so a van certainly piqued my interest. It had been painted black by a previous owner, but as soon as I lifted the bonnet I knew that it was a former Post Office van – and that it needed saving.  
It was in a really dreadful state, with rot everywhere, including around the notoriously tricky to repair gutters on both cab and back. The rot was so bad that the roof had been anchored to the sides with angle brackets to prevent it blowing away! Holes had been bridged with duct tape, which had been topped with filler that had latterly been covered in more tape. It’s astonishing really what people will do to keep an old van in service! It also had windows cut into the side, which required carefully welding up – a seriously tricky and time-consuming process to avoid warping the panels. In honesty, I only bought it as it was so local. It was past saving really, but despite all the corrosion and 30 years sitting in the shed, I was able to get it running where it sat and drove it onto the trailer to bring it home!  
That’s when reality really hit – I borrowed a space in a friends barn and left it for a year while I summoned the motivation, cleared the decks and came up with a plan of action. Once in the garage, and before the complete strip down began, I set to work repairing the van back while it was still on the chassis and bolted to the cab. This essentially acted as a jig to keep the shape and steadily, piece by piece, I was able to restore enough strength to the body – including replacing the floors and arches with repair sections – that it could be safely removed from the chassis.  
The cab came next and the van was soon stripped to its constituent components. Unlike the Minor saloons and Travellers, LCVs (vans and pick-ups) benefitted from a ladder chassis that makes the restoration process somewhat different to what I’d been used to until this point. The chassis too, of course, required a fair amount of rot cutting out and replacing. It was a painstaking process.  
Once the welding was complete, months of preparation followed before I painted each component – cab, back, doors, bonnet, wings – with synthetic enamel. The engine was rebuilt with fresh bearings and a rebore to +0.20, while each and every one of the ancillaries required attention – for example the distributor bob weights were seized solid and the carburettor needed a complete overhaul.

Long-hidden just a mile from his house, as soon as Andy saw yellow paint under the bonnet, he knew this barn find was worth restoring.  
**Rocking and rolling**  
The suspension was so worn out that rocking the top of the wheel yielded significant movement and clonks, so both uprights were replaced along with a full complement of trunnions and bushes throughout. The wear was remarkable given that it had only been on the road for 12 years in its working life – but following its service for the GPO it had served as a builders van and had clearly worked hard in that short time. I actually managed to get in touch with the builder who had used it and took the restored van to see him. He was delighted to see it again and amazed that it had survived. By all accounts, it should have been scrapped in the Eighties but luckily the farmer simply pushed it into the barn and left it. I now use it for everything from local events and runs to trips further afield such as the annual pilgrimage Sam and I take to Moggiefest, organised by the Dorset branch of the MMOC, at the Beaulieu Autojumble. It never fails to turn heads wherever it goes – being a bright yellow van – and performs well, even when fully loaded with spare parts and our favourite beer from a brewery deep in the New Forest!

**Nuts!** Minor LCVs featured double ended wheel nuts – so a full complement could be retained even if the threads were damaged on the end of one.

**Power** 1098c A-series is perky enough. Originally it would have been fitted with low compression pistons, which ensured sufficient torque to move the van when fully laden.

**Buzby!** Voiced by Bernard Cribbins, ‘Buzby’ first appeared in 1976 as part of a marketing campaign by Post Office Telecommunications. Andy has faithfully recreated the van’s livery and signage as it would have been when it left service.  
  
**BEST HELP**  
‘I bought a shrinker/stretcher tool to form repair panels for the gutters, but it’s paid for itself ten times over now.’  
**TIME TAKEN:** 2 years  
**ESTIMATED COST:** £2.5k

Van-tastic!

## The classics you love, drive and restore

  
**‘It will never leave me… fate brought us together’**  
**1974 Volvo 145** _Graham Silverton, Horncastle_

  
I've got this car in this colour combination as my mum and dad bought one exactly the same, brand-new, in 1974. I didn’t think much of it, then got to an age where I started to wonder if one still existed.  
This was where fate played a hand. My wife and I were on holiday in the Highlands, and I spotted this 145 for sale, the ad saying no more than it was in Scotland. It was in the village where we were staying! And last year, I sent an email to Practical Classics about Volvo estates, and the picture you used, without knowing, was of my dad under his Volvo. It came through the letterbox on the anniversary of the day we lost him. I opened the magazine and I swear it fell open at the letters page. My 35,000-mile Volvo is never leaving me now; fate brought us together.

  
  
**‘It’s just the perfect little old lady car’**  
**1987 Daihatsu Charade** _Grant Kelso, Fareham_

  
A little old lady who lived across the road from my grandad wanted to scrap it. He asked me if I was interested, so I leapt at the opportunity. The woman was in her nineties and had lived in the same house all her life. The car lived in a garage block and had a weekly routine – she’d go and get it from the garage, go shopping and tuck it back away until the following week. I bought the car in 2019, and even agreed to rent the garage to keep it in, so the car lives in the same garage it has been parked in for its entire life.

Low mileage minter.  
  
**‘This was my daily driver for three years’**  
**1994 Renault Clio Williams** _Andy Hardy, Stevenage_

  
I went to the Knebworth Classic Car Show in 2022 and saw this for sale. It was the first time I’d actually seen one in the metal. I bought it, because I thought it looked a bit naughty with its gold wheels, and despite having 144,000 miles on the clock, the car was in good condition. Plus, with that mileage, I had no worries about using it as a daily driver. I did that for three years, but now they’re so rare it’s just holidays and fun days out. I don’t want to have to restore the car as I’ve got a restoration project for a house going on, and I’m spending all my money on boring stufflike kitchen cupboards. On the plus side though, I've now got a garage big enough to keep it in.  
  
**‘It only has 9000 miles on the clock’**  
**1989 Rover Maestro 1.3L** _Richard Usher, Derbyshire_

  
As the founder of The Great British Car Journey, it’s only right that I should have a very ordinary British car. It’s a 1989 Maestro 1.3 Special, but I have to be honest and say it’s probably the least special Maestro model ever made, with an A-series engine and a four-speed VW gearbox. There are not many extras, but I do have a radio. I used to run a windscreen company, and the humble Austin was the first volume UK production car to have a bonded screen – that changed our business! Even I can change a Metro windscreen that had a rubber filler strip, but this was a lot more complicated. We sold lots of Maestro screens because they were big and often got hit by stones. What makes this car special is that it has only done 9000 miles and is fully rot-free.  
  
CAR OF THE MONTH  
**‘I hoped that a TR7 would attract the opposite sex!’**  
**1980 Triumph TR7 FHC, 1982 TR7 DHC** _David Johnson, Launceston, Cornwall_

David has accrued a sizeable amount of spares over the years.

  
**You’ve been a fan of the TR7 for quite a while then?**  
‘You could say that! My interest in Triumph TR7s came in the mid-Eighties, when my friend Steve Wright bought a T-registered coupé that I really loved. This sparked my interest in the ’7 and I then began looking for one for myself. Not to be outdone, I wanted to find a better one than Steve's! This was of course in the days before the advantage of the Internet, and the only way of finding cars then was by visiting local dealers, poring over the classifieds in the local _Coventry Evening Telegraph_ or finding one in _Auto Trader_. I found a lovely V-registered white TR7 coupé – ENT 65V – in Leicester, which I bought for £1750. I used the car to travel to work and back and even hoped it would attract the opposite sex, but sadly it didn’t do the latter very well. I kept it for about two years, until my first step on the property ladder arrived, and then it sadly had to go.’

Factory permit backs up the provenance of this car.

  
**But you’ve got a couple of projects on the go currently?**  
‘I brought the brown coupé from a gentleman in Nuneaton last year, who was in the process of restoring it, but his focus changed to restoring another vehicle. The TR7 was mostly complete, although the entire of the interior needed re-fitting, while it didn’t start either. I refitted the interior and eventually got the car running. The only reason it didn’t start first time was due to the fuel going off.’  
**It's a bit more special than your average ’7, too, isn't it?**  
‘Yes, this car is really special as it was used to test the O-series engine that was subsequently fitted to both the Maestro and Montego. The factory took 25 TR7s off the track to test the O-series engine in and my understanding is that there are only three of those 25 remaining today, with two of those three now having been converted to V8 power. My car has only done 16,000 miles and is quite a rare TR7. There are a couple of areas of rust on the body and it has a lot of micro blistering. The plan is to have it repainted this year, and then I intend to use the car as much as possible as it ticks over beautifully and sounds sweet. The engine was stripped and rebuilt by renowned TR7 mechanic, Trevor Godwin, in Coventry.’

Possibly the last remaining O-series beneath the bonnet of a Triumph TR7…

  
**Sounds good. And what about the later silver car?**  
‘The silver Sprint-engined convertible was also bought last year from a gentleman who lived in a tiny hamlet on Bodmin Moor. Bizarrely, there was also a V8 for sale in the same village, yet the two guys don’t know each other. This ’7 was covered in numerous stickers, most of which have been removed, while the carburettors have been balanced and the timing adjusted, making the car run a lot better. The convertible was purchased to have some fun on the open roads on those lazy, hazy, crazy, Cornwall summer days and, when the weather is not so great, then I’ll be using the coupé.

David is planning to treat this special machine to a fresh paint job this year.

  
**Are these two going to be keepers then?**  
‘Over the past 10 years, I have continually owned TR7s, genuine TR8s and a TR7 V8, all of which I have loved, but I do enjoy owning different ones. I really do love them; they are relatively easy to work on and handle so well, while Harris Mann’s design stands the test of time. They are also getting the recognition they deserve. Buying them is a disease, to which there is no known cure! The first car I bought in 2014 was used in an episode of _The Professionals_!  
If I said both cars were keepers, then fellow TR Drivers Club members – I edit the club magazine – and enthusiasts who know me would laugh out loud. Joking aside, I do fully intend to keep both cars as they give me flexibility of use, and both are great fun to drive.’

The car that started it all – FHC belonging to David's friend, Steve Wright.  
  
**‘The last surviving Visa Champagne’**  
**1983 Citroën Visa Champagne** _Lewis Dixon, Hamilton_

Under 5000 miles on the clock.  
This is a very rare car indeed – I think it’s the only surviving Citröen Visa Champagne, as the model was a special edition that was only made between June and November of 1983. The first owner was an old chap who fought in WWII and he didn’t want a German or Japanese car because of the war connotations, but at the same time he didn’t want a British car either as he thought that Leyland stuff was a bit rubbish. So, French it was. They were allies, after all. He originally had a pre-facelift Visa but got into a big accident in it, so bought another because he believed the first Visa’s design saved him.  
He did 3800 miles in it before it was parked up in 1990. In 2023, I was working for a car parts supplier and saw it parked up outside a garage, where it had somehow ended up after 33 years off the road. I bought it, recommissioned it and it has now done 4,100 miles. I’ve kept the car as original as I can, so that's why it has a few marks and signs of wear, and some of the paint has faded.  
  
**‘It’s got a Chrysler V8 under the bonnet’**  
**1963 Humber Super Snipe MkIV** _William Henson, Rugby_

  
This is my subtly modified Humber, which is a bit of a rod. The original six-cylinder engine was shot when I bought it, so it’s now got a Chrysler 318 V8 under the bonnet instead. It would have cost a lot to make fix the engine up, so we decided to drop a V8 in it instead. It pretty much went straight in, but we had to get a propshaft and exhaust system custom-made. I love the sound it makes, especially with the bespoke silencer pipes, but otherwise it’s standard. I love it because it's actually a really subtle rod. The interior is all standard, it doesn’t look heavily modified other than the wheels and nobody realises how lively it is. We did most of the work on the car at home on the drive!  
  
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Your cars: May 2025

BUYING FEATURE  
We look at five different approaches to the hardcore sports car

  
1 - Toyota MR2  
**ENGINE** 1794cc/4-cyl/OHC  
**GEARBOX** RWD, 6-speed manual  
**POWER** 138bhp@6400rpm  
**TORQUE** 125lb ft@4400rpm  
**0-60mph** 8sec  
**TOP SPEED** 131mph  
**ECONOMY** 37mpg  
**WEIGHT** 1030kg  
**PRICE NEW** £17,150  
**VALUE NOW** £750**\-**£5000

  
2- BMW Z4M  
**ENGINE** 3246cc/6-cyl/OHC  
**GEARBOX** RWD, 6-speed manual  
**POWER** 38bhp@7900rpm  
**TORQUE** 269lb ft@4900rpm  
**0-60mph** 5sec  
**TOP SPEED** 155mph  
**ECONOMY** 23mpg  
**WEIGHT** 1485kg  
**PRICE NEW** £33,815  
**VALUE NOW** £5000**\-**£20,000

  
3 - Fiat Barchetta  
**ENGINE** 1747cc/4-cyl/OHC  
**GEARBOX** FWD, 5-speed manual  
**POWER** 29bhp@6300rpm  
**TORQUE** 121lb ft@4300rpm  
**0-60mph** 8.7sec  
**TOP SPEED** 118mph  
**ECONOMY** 33mpg  
**WEIGHT** 1056kg  
**PRICE NEW** £11,995  
**VALUE NOW** £1500**\-**£8000

  
4- Nissan 350Z  
**ENGINE** 3498cc/24v V6/OHC  
**GEARBOX** RWD, 6-speed manual  
**POWER** 276bhp@6200rpm  
**TORQUE** 268lb ft@4800rpm  
**0-60mph** 5.9sec  
**TOP SPEED** 155mph  
**ECONOMY** 24mpg  
**WEIGHT** 1525kg  
**PRICE NEW** £27,000  
**VALUE NOW** £3000**\-**£10,500

  
5 - Lotus Elise (S2)  
**ENGINE** 1796cc/4-cyl/OHC  
**GEARBOX** RWD, 5-speed manual  
**POWER** 118bhp@5500rpm  
**TORQUE** 124lb ft@3000rpm  
**0-60mph** 5.7sec  
**TOP SPEED** 126mph  
**ECONOMY** 38mpg  
**WEIGHT** 785kg  
**PRICE NEW** £23,183  
**VALUE NOW** £9000**\-**£18,000

  
It’s that time of year again. You can feel the evenings getting longer, the temperatures rising (at least to somewhere above freezing) and we’re all thinking about dusting off our classics for the summer months to come but what if you’re thinking about life with the top down? What are the options out there? And which one would you ideally like in your driveway?  
Here's a diverse selection of roadsters – something for everyone, starting with the cheaper end of the scale. That said, values of the mid-engine MR2 and the front-wheel drive Barchetta are beginning to rise. Both offer droptop enjoyment on a mountain drive, with the delicate styling of the Italian giving it an exotic feel. The less practical MR2 more suits the B-road thrillseeker, meanwhile. Speaking of which, both 350Z and Lotus Elise are a joy to drive, but approach performance driving in very different ways. The Lotus is, as you’d expect, one of the greatest handling sports cars ever built – little comes close to the way it makes you feel on a moorland road. Yet, surprisingly, the Nissan is almost as engaging to drive and has a better soundtrack. It’s also easier to live with. And then there’s the tame looking Z4M which is, in fact, the hooligan of the group. It’s a ground-based missile. But do you need such a thing, when a bargain Barchetta puts a big grin on your face for half the price? Let’s see what the team thinks…

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Springtime sportsters

## Practical Classics magazine: for all your classic adventures...

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Let Practical Classics be your guide to help **start your new restoration project**, finish a long-term car renovation or **maintain your prize possession** to keep it on the road. For a limited time only, you can enjoy your first three issues for only £5 including FREE UK delivery, straight to your door.

Every issue is packed with tales and trials from the magazines own workshop, giving you first-hand knowledge and advice to help you along the way.

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THE BIG RESTORATION  
Sam Ibbotson’s fastidious Mini revival, all done in a single garage  
**WORDS** MATT TOMKINS **PICTURES** MATT HOWELL

**THE RESTRORER** Son of PC contributor Andy Ibbotson, it’s clear that Sam was bitten by the classic bug early. He currently owns 10 classics and is very much a ‘project person’. His day job is in facilities management for the MOD.

**AS FOUND** Sam made the age-old mistake of buying the Mini from within a dark garage. ‘It looked OK in there’, he says.  
**I**n this job we’re blessed to be introduced to some fantastic people. Bona fide enthusiasts, lunatics if you will, who pour thousands of hours and an even larger number of pounds into reviving wrecks, otherwise destined for the scrapyard.  
It’s a multi-billion-pound industry, but in the cold, Cornish winter air, stood chatting to one such restorer, it’s obviously so much more than that. I first met Sam Ibbotson some years ago on the hallowed fields of the Beaulieu Autojumble. He and his dad, Andy – now a PC contributor himself – had come to the PC stand to chat all things Mini and Morris Minor. It was immediately clear that these were a pair who were badly afflicted.

Later dash: no central clock.  
The Mini sat before us today, a 1995 Cooper 1.3i, is testament not only to Sam’s immense skills but also his unwavering willingness to learn ‘on the job’. ‘I always wanted a Mini’ says Sam, ‘But dad bought me an Austin 1300 as my first car instead – being an ungrateful teenager, that soon went, and I bought my first Mini (a Sprite SPI) not long after.’ Sam had to sell that Mini when he went to university, but it wasn’t long before its place was taken by a split-screen Morris Minor – that’s where the tinkering started. ‘With the SPI Minis, things seem to work pretty well. They don’t need constant tweaking and tinkering like a carburettor-fed car, so it wasn’t until I was driving the Minor that I had to really roll my sleeves up and learn.’ A previous Cooper taught Sam bodywork skills, requiring a replacement door skin among other things, but when this one came along, it was a different challenge entirely. ‘I made the cardinal error of viewing it in a dark garage, not in the daylight’, confesses Sam. ‘In hindsight, I probably shouldn’t have bought it, but here we are!’ It was a non-runner at point of purchase – which really should have been the easy bit. ‘I didn’t think that would be too much of a problem, we had lots of bits laying around and previous experience with Minis and Minors, which share the A-series engine and ancillaries, and the bodywork didn’t look too bad.’ Unfortunately for Sam ‘It had been bodged quite well’. But we’ll get on to that. The first job was to try and get it running.

Plenty of sound deadening lays beneath the carpet.  
**Plan of action**  
The plan was that Sam and his dad, Andy, would take a week offtogether, get the car running and driving, patch up a few holes and avoid the need for a full strip down and restoration for at least the short term. That wasn’t to be. ‘When we started to strip it down, we realised that the previous owner had used it as a first foray into the world of tinkering. The cooling system was brimmed with fresh engine oil, the tricksy SPI unit had been inexpertly messed with and numerous welding repairs had been finished off with duct tape underneath paint and sealant.  
It was a catalogue of issues.’ The chaps looked at each other with raised eyebrows, as the mounting list of ‘while we’re here’ jobs increased. It became obvious very quickly that this was going to be more than a week’s work. Sills, inner A-panels, door skins, rear valance, boot floor, front wings… a full restoration beckoned.  
‘The previous owner had used the car as a first foray into the world of tinkering’

A packed bay that demonstrates the Mini’s extraordinary evolution.  
**Panel problems**  
Plenty of ‘normal Mini welding’ followed. ‘The biggest bugbear was with the fit of pattern panels’ sighs Sam. ‘The scuttle panel we bought was particularly bad – whatever I did with the bonnet adjustment, it simply wouldn’t sit right at the back, even if drawn forward to the point where it was causing issues at the front. A Heritage panel saved the day, so that was lesson number one: buy once, buy right.’ Factory spot welds were studiously drilled out before replacement panels were plug welded in their place with the MIG welder, while seam welded repairs were undertaken where full panels were deemed unnecessary. New door skins replaced rotten originals before finally, oh finally, he was left with a straight and solid shell ready for paint. Sounds easy if you say it quickly, doesn’t it?  
Prep and paint of the bare shell followed, all carried out by Sam in Andy’s single garage. The colour, Almond Green, isn’t original for the car, which was originally supplied in metallic British Racing Green, but Sam’s deviation from original specification wasn’t without good reason. ‘I had never sprayed metallic and, given that I would be painting it in the garage – somewhere we’ve had problem with silicones in the paint before – I didn’t want to have the added complications of panel orientation that come with spraying metallics. Besides, this is a car I built to use, I wanted to be able to touch it up should the need arise, which is far easier with a flat colour. I didn’t want to be scared to use it.’ Sam continues ‘There are actually two shades of Almond Green, a Sixties one and a Nineties one – this is the latter and was applied to some special edition Minis in 1995 anyway.’

Headlining was particularly tricky, but Sam got there in the end.

Silicone brake fluid should ensure system longevity.  
**The heart of the matter**  
Mechanical work continued apace alongside the bodywork, the Cooper’s 1275cc heart receiving a rebore, fresh pistons, a crank grind, new shells, camshaft bearings and suchlike while the original subframes received meticulous repairs, fresh bushes and bearings where required - a previous owner having already thrown a significant amount of money on upgrades such as Hi-Lows and Spax dampers. While the engine was apart, the gearbox went away and was replaced by a reconditioned unit – but as Sam reports, that was not smooth sailing. ‘When I got the car all back together, it was immediately obvious that something was wrong with the ’box. On the first test-drive, it jumped out of top gear, and under load in both first and reverse a horrendous screech filled the cabin and oil coated the floor’.  
Out it came and back to the specialist it was shipped. Multiple phone calls later, the ’box was back again, and Sam refitted it and the engine to the car, taking great care not to damage the fresh paint. Problems again and out it came. Eventually, after nearly 18 months of frustration, another new ’box now sits below the engine block and each ratio now engages with the ease one would expect. A huge relief for Sam, I can tell.  
Aside from the frustrations with the gearbox, Sam reveals the single point injection (SPI) system to have been an unexpected source of complication. ‘You simply can’t get many of the SPI-specific parts new’, he laments. ‘When I first stripped the car down, I snapped an injector rail pipe, which had seized in the union, but simply assumed I would be able to replace it with another off the shelf.’ Unfortunately, this would prove not to be the case, so much hunting for secondhand parts followed. ‘I now have a good stock of secondhand SPI parts, so should be well-positioned to keep the system in good fettle into the future. Thankfully, Mini Spares is now reproducing all the required vacuum hoses for the SPI – these are a common trouble spot, so I replaced all of mine as a matter of course.’ Once back on the road, there remained some fettling to do – one stepper motor, some careful adjustment of the idle control module and a partially broken wire from the oxygen sensor, which had been causing intermittent non-starting replaced, the engine is now finally running as it should.  
It's not been a project without its challenges, then, which could easily have pushed other restorers to the limit and beyond. But the finished result before us is a true demonstration of what can be achieved with focus, dedication and skill. Despite inevitable calls on his time from an ever-growing fleet, Sam has managed to ensure the Mini a level of finish befitting of the groundwork he put in to it. It’s a car that drives and feels just as good as it looks, and one of which Sam should be extremely proud.  
‘On the first test drive, it jumped out of top gear, with a horrible screech’

Sam’s next project, a Clubman, to which he’ll apply all learnings from the Cooper.  
  
**Here’s how Sam did it…**

**1 DECEMBER 2019 - Strip down**  
When the car arrived home, Sam realised he could see daylight from behind the dash. Then things escalated…

**2 MARCH 2020 - Weld on**  
Afresh pair of front wings are plug welded into place.

**3 MAY 2020 - Prime time**  
High-build primer applied, Sam and partner Danny get to work with countless hours of filling and flatting.

**4 SEPTEMBER 2020 - Paint it green**  
With the garage decked with sheets, Sam applied the top coats of Almond Green himself.

**5 MARCH 2021 - Big build**  
With the shell resplendent in its colour coats, the car ‘just’ needed putting back together, every single part having been refurbished or replaced.

Those 12in wheels with 165/60 tyres fill the arches nicely.  
  
**TECH SPEC**  
**Engine** 1275cc/4-cyl/OHV  
**Power** 62bhp@5700rpm  
**Torque** 70lb ft@3900rpm  
**Gearbox** 4-speed manual  
**0-60 mph** 11.5sec  
**Top speed** 92mph  
**Fuel economy** 36.2mpg  
  
**WHAT'S IT LIKE TO DRIVE**

Just look at that grin!  
It's no secret that the ‘hot seat’ of any Mini is one of the greatest places to be for any petrolhead, and something that everyone with oil in their veins should experience. Having folded myself behind the wheel of Sam's car, I’m immediately struck by the lightness and tightness of this car. Everything from that rebuilt gearbox – I’m so pleased Sam persevered with it – which snicks precisely between ratios to the perky engine up-front which responds eagerly to even the lightest jab of the right foot, testament to Sam’s fastidious attitude and experience with A-series engines. The suspension feels taught and the interior is quiet and free from knocks and rattles, with perfection achieved from headlining to carpet set. While the ‘go’ is impressive, the diminutive brakes tucked behind the Cooper’s tiny 12in wheels are also sharp and responsive.  
This really is an addictive driving experience, a cut above other Mini’s I’ve driven. This car is so much more than the sum of its parts and is one I really don’t want to return the keys to!  
  
**USEFUL CONTACTS**  
British Motor Heritage, :a[bmh-ltd.com]{href='https://bmh-ltd.com' } Mini Spares, :a[minispares.com]{href='https://minispares.com' } Paul Inch Engine Services, :a[paulinch.co.uk]{href='https://paulinch.co.uk' }  
  
**Restorer of the Year 2026**  
Restorer of the Year celebrates the shed heroes who, every year, produce extraordinary work breathing life back into basket cases and bringing classics that are going nowhere back to the road. We’ll scour the land to bring you the very best then, early in 2026, you get to nominate your favourite restos. From your top ten nominations our panel of experts will select the top five nominees so that you can meet the winner at the **PC** Classic Car and Restoration show at the NEC next March.

In the Spring 2025 issue of Practical Classics, there’s a special look back at 45 years of our magazine, with memories from our writers who tell us about their favourite restorations and road trips.

Meanwhile, we meet Sam, a man on a mission to transform his Mini at home from basket case to showstopper and check out a stunning Ford Orion with an extraordinary story. We head for the Mediterranean to meet a dedicated Skoda Favorit and Austin Maestro fan, while James crashes his Berlingo in Spain.

There are in-depth guides on the Jaguar XJ S1-S3 and Nissan Figaro, a special journey for a special Frontera and a road trip aboard a Talbot Lotus Sunbeam. Meanwhile at the workshop, we’re looking at braking faults and the best way of waking up your classic after a winter slumber, plus updates on the team’s classics – Scimitar, 2CV, MGF, Standard Ten and Morris Minor!

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BUYER'S BRIEF  
The XJ is still top of the pile, yet remains remarkable value in 2025…

For power, comfort and sheer style, the XJ is pretty hard to beat.  
Around six grand should be your starting point for a good XJ. Less than that and you should be asking the seller some very serious questions about its history and their reasons for flogging it. You should get a very agreeable example for around £10,000, if recent auction results are anything to go by. To give you an idea, Hampson Auctions saw a 1968 car sell for £10,688 last summer, while a 1973 S1 needing a little attention went for £8331 at Mathewsons in November. Spend a few thousand extra or more, and you’ll be looking at very nice low mileage or professionally restored saloons and coupés. At the other end of the scale, check your barn find very carefully as a scruffy XJ project can soon get out of hand.  
**Why you want one**  
With mid-Sixties Jaguar showrooms crammed with shiny examples of S Type, 240, 340, 420 and 420G, the arrival of the XJ6 rationalised Jaguar’s range while drawing the best of all those cars into one svelte package. So good was that package, and so distinctive from the rest of the executive pack, the XJ6 lasted almost a quarter of a century and set the theme for big Jags until only recently. The distinctive and unique XJ6 shape came from the pen of Chief Engineer Bob Knight, after Jaguar boss Sir William Lyons asked for ‘a saloon car with the handling of an E-type’. While it relied heavily on parts from other cars in house, including the E-type’s independent rear suspension layout and twin-cam, straight-six powerplant, the car looked like no other exec. It still has immense presence today. But which one to buy?  
If you’re looking for an early model, you’ll find your Series 1 with a 2.8-litre or 4.2-litre version of the XK straight-six. Power steering was standard on De Luxe 2.8s and the 4.2. The Daimler 4.2 was launched later in 1969 and may have the optional air con. All cars got the twin fuel tanks – a feature inherited from the S-type and MkX. A long wheelbase version was available from 1972, as was the XJ12 model with its 5.3-litre unit.  
The Series 2 was introduced in 1973 and is recognisable by its higher front bumper (for US crash regulations) and shallower grille. All models now had the longer wheelbase (4in extra) body. The XJ gained revised engines with a 3.4-litre unit acting as the entry-level and saw the launch of the elegant pillarless coupé. The Series 3 arrived in 1979, with Pininfarina tweaked styling, new rear lights, a bigger glass area and improved headroom. While the svelte lines were rightly praised, it was the refinement and ride comfort – the latter rarely bettered since – that really grabbed people’s attention. The Series 1 marked the start of a model line that lasted until 1987 in XJ6 form, although the S3 Daimler Double-Six version soldiered on for another five years.  
**The inspection**  
Classics don’t come better cherished than a big Jag, but while parts and expertise are (mostly) available, there are still some challenges to restoration and maintenance. Starting with corrosion, any visible rust is often the tip of the iceberg. You may need to carefully consider fabrication because, for instance, original front wings can command a good few hundred quid apiece, with repair sections around £40. Add £300+ if you can’t do the job yourself. Good used doors can be bagged for about £200, although a brand-new skin from a specialist is around £300. Your chosen XJ may have been bodged, so analyse the bottoms of the A-,Band C-pillars along with the sills and rear wheelarches. Radius arms (£175 each) require close inspection, as do the trickyto-repair front and rear screen surrounds; the S3 is the most likely to be affected in this manner because of its bonded-in screen.

**CABIN** Slow electric windows are often down to corrosion in the guides leading to the glass being pinched. Stripping each door down is time-consuming, but worthwhile.  
Under the bonnet, expect oil pressure of 40psi when cruising; some consumption is normal, but lots of smoke on the over-run or when the throttle is blipped points to hardened valve stem seals or worn valve guides on the six-cylinder. Budget £3000 to fix this if you’re paying somebody else to do the job, but complications such as corrosion or cracks in the cylinder block (the latter more likely with the S1 and S2) might necessitate a rebuild. Budget £7k-10k for a specialist to remove the engine, rebuild and refit it. It’s more than possible to do it yourself though, with loads of expertise out there to help you on your way.  
Only V12s and 4.2 Series 3s from 1977 got electronic fuel injection; all other XJs have SU carbs. From 1971 the latter got an automatic choke called an AED (Automatic Enrichment Device), which wears then fails, leading to poor starting. For around £200 the AED can be re-built or converted to a manual system; the latter doesn’t fix the common problem of the lower diaphragm failing and leaking fuel internally. Poor running can also be because of water in the fuel. The fillers are mounted horizontally on top of the rear wings; blocked drains and perished seals allow water to seep directly into the two fuel tanks, with inevitable results. LPG conversions must be done by a specialist. Tank capacity ranges from 60 litres to 130, fuel economy figures drop by 20 per cent, but LPG costs just 50p a litre.

**ENGINE** The straight-six (XK) or 5.3-litre V12 engines will cover 300,000 miles if looked after properly.  
All V12s and most six-cylinder cars had an automatic gearbox. Auto 3.4 and 4.2 S2s and pre1978 V12s featured a Borg Warner transmission; later XJ12s had a GM400 Hydramatic. Some Series 1 Model 8 and Model 12 Borg Warner transmissions can be clunky with their ratio changes, even when in good condition; later XJs were better. Inspect the fluid for colour, level and condition. The manual gearbox is strong and most S1s and S2s have overdrive; the Series 3 offered a five-speed gearbox without overdrive. If the overdrive is slow to engage, chances are the oil probably needs changing or the level has dropped.  
Unevenly worn tyres are normally caused by tired balljoints. XJs had lower balljoints with adjustable shims and a grease nipple in the upper ball joints until the late Eighties. Later cars got sealed joints from Lemforder; these are interchangeable with earlier cars, are highly recommended and should be fitted for around £30 apiece. Worn suspension and rear subframe bushes are common so check that they haven’t split, knocking the geometry out. The top front wishbone bushes normally wear first; new ones cost £40 plus an hour’s labour to fit. A complete kit of front suspension bushes costs £175 with replacement generally straightforward. Early S1s had solid front brake discs from the S-type; later cars got ventilated front discs. Alloy four-pot calipers are available with cross-drilled discs and harder brake pads, transforming stopping power and improving the driving experience of the magnificent XJ even further.

**BODYWORK** Look out for rusty front and rear valances, along with the spare wheel well, door bottoms and rear radius arm mounts.  
  
What it's like to live with  
**James Walshe** recounts his XJ experiences

With an abundance of specialists out there, relatively speaking, owning an XJ is something of a breeze these days. Certainly, according to my mate Chris, who has been wafting about in his Daimler Double Six for the past year, he prefers it to the family VW Touran. ‘It’s thirsty, but the Jaguar has been a lot less trouble – and it’s cheaper and easier to fix than the modern junk!’ More recently, I had a go in my friend Tom’s S3 3.4 – a bog-standard model with cloth seats. That example too had proven itself to be reliable, yet with a feeling of unique sophistication that rivals failed to capture at the time – despite many of them crowing about superior quality. Sure, aspects such as the ingenious folding glovebox mirror look fragile, but that character flows from every corner of the XJ. It’s hard not to be captivated.  
The car you see in these pages is a pre-production straight-six XJ, which we took back to Browns Lane. Hand-built by a team under the then 22-yearold Development Engineer Jonathan Heynes, it was test driven by Norman Dewis before becoming a press car and later a gift from William Lyons to his mate, the Chairman of the West Midlands Passenger Transport Authority. Our visit to Browns Lane with the XJ was an emotional one. Operations at the site were completely wrapped up by 2005, the assembly halls were demolished three years after that, and the museum building went in 2012. Gaydon might be home to a vastly superior museum facility, but the sight of our XJ in front of the old Jaguar Social Club made our legs wobble with pride. This is more than just a big old barge. It is a car with common sense, an unruffled disposition and a smooth, charming character. It’s the very best of Great Britain on four wheels.

More gentle cruiser than B-road bruiser.  
  
**WHAT TO PAY**  
**PROJECT** £1000-3500  
**GOOD** £4000£10,000  
**EXCELLENT** £10,000-£20,000  
**TECH SPEC**  
**ENGINE** 2792CC/6-CYL/OHC  
**POWER** 147BHP@5750RPM  
**TORQUE** 182LB FT@3750RPM  
**TOP SPEED** 118MPH  
**0-60MPH** 11.1SEC  
**GEARBOX** 3-SPEED AUTO  
**ECONOMY** 18MPG  
  
**USEFUL CONTACTS**  
Jaguar Enthusiasts’ Club, :a[jec.org.uk]{href='https://jec.org.uk' } Jaguar Drivers’ Club, :a[jaguardriver.co.uk]{href='https://jaguardriver.co.uk' } AJ6 Engineering, :a[aj6engineering.co.uk]{href='https://aj6engineering.co.uk' } David Manners, :a[jagspares.co.uk]{href='https://jagspares.co.uk' } SNG Barratt, :a[sngbarratt.com]{href='https://sngbarratt.com' }

Jaguar XJ S1-S3

READER’S STORY  
A worldwide pandemic couldn’t stop **John Kerry** from saving this Ford Orion  
**INTERVIEW & PICTURES** JAMES WALSHE

**AS FOUND** Registered on August 19, 1988, the previous owner bought the Orion from the original one in 1991 and used it regularly for eight years, until parking it up for more than 20 years. John had his work cut out, but began straight away.  
**I**n 2019, I heard about a Ford Orion that was about to be scrapped, because the owner had passed away and the family, left with the difficult task of sorting out his things, didn’t know what to do with it. Suddenly, I was the new owner of a 1988 Orion 1.6 Ghia with just 46,000 miles – and lots of rust. I’d need to learn some new skills to bring it back! Initially I got tips from my brother-in-law, Terry. He took me through the process of welding one of the sills and, after trying it myself, he came over to visit one day and suggested that I probably didn’t need his help anymore! I pick up these things quite quickly. Around that time, I’d seen TV’s Paul Cowland talking about a welding course in Northampton, so I paid to do a day there and it made all the difference.  
When the pandemic hit in 2020, I couldn’t work for two months as I’m a self-employed decorator. I therefore quickly bought all the panels I still needed, as I reckoned other blokes would be doing the same! I paid fifty quid for a front wing, £90 for a rear panel, then bagged myself four new doors, a front panel, battery tray, four new floor pans, inner and outer sills. The rear arches were bad, so I found a full five-door Escort rear quarter section for the areas of metal I needed. My wife Trina initially hit the roof when she saw the bills mounting. But she understood – I had time on my hands, and it was important for me to keep myself busy.  
Work progressed, with our garage busy with endless cutting and welding! There were challenges, for example the bulkhead around the servo mount and battery tray area – that was rusted out. Blackpool-based Ford breaker Sean Lomax sorted me out with a replacement bulkhead, for which I set off for at 4am one morning. I was back home working on it by 11am! I spent day after day on the car, carefully turning a rusty shell into something with greater strength than before, making the odd mistake and putting it right. But I felt it had to be the best it could be. It was a similar story having removed the headlining, which is when I noticed a big hole in the sunroof area. The frame itself was rotten, along with the cassette that it drops into. I had planned to weld it all up, but found everything I needed from a full roof that was for sale in Manchester for £150! That ended up being the only bit of welding I didn’t do myself – the job was just a bit too tricky for me, so my pal Andy did it. His skills are way beyond mine!  
Part of my trade involves spraying kitchens and furniture, so I decided to have a go at a car. I bare metalled the underside of it on the A-frame and added two coats of epoxy, two coats of base and three coats of lacquer, then prepared everything else ready for the respray. Doing the prep myself saved a lot of money, although I still got an understandably sizeable bill from the paint shop! Worth it though – it looks brilliant, as do the powder coated wheels.  
I’d removed the engine earlier and gave it a complete overhaul, with a little of Terry’s guidance. He’s a brilliant mechanic and helped me to work through a lot of my mistakes, as it was the first engine I’ve ever rebuilt. He’d pop over and give me tips until I learned to do it on my own. I then replaced any of the ancillaries that couldn’t be restored and added reproduction decals for the factory look. I couldn’t have done it without people like Mikey Marshall – a fount of knowledge I met through the Orion Facebook page. He answered many questions at ‘daft o clock’ via text message.  
There are times you must think differently, too. The original headlights weren’t the best. So, with replacement right-hand drive units costing up to £500, I combined my original lenses with a brand-new left-hand drive pair I’d found. To separate the lenses from the unit, I put them in the oven for 20 minutes and stank the house out. When the time came for an MOT, I was just so happy with the car. To top it off, the MOT was done by Peter at Barron Motors – the very man who last MOT’d this car back in the Nineties!  
  
**REAR END**  
After finding rusty holes in the rear panel under the rubber seal, John found a replacement for £90 from a seller in Sheffield. But it was during a Covid lockdown, so it was a few months before John could get his hands on it!

  
**LIGHTS**  
Lights are a combination of two pairs. Unsticking and separation of lens from the unit meant putting them in the oven for 20 minutes.

**ENGINE**  
Orion’s engine was stripped and rebuilt using many new parts. Pre-MOT panic over a misfire was sorted with a set of higher quality HT leads.

**ARCHES**  
John took welding classes before tackling the floors, sills and wings. Specifically, he wanted to learn how to fix his Orion’s rusty arches.  
**COCKPIT**  
Orion’s comfy Ghia interior was mildly modified, with ‘Hide n Seat’ in Norwich sourcing new old stock fabric for the Recaro seats.  
  
**TIME TAKEN** 4 years  
**EST. COST** £8k  
**BEST HELP** ‘If you lack the skills, there are courses out there just for you. For what you end up with, it’s worth every penny!’  
  
**Practical Classics Restorer of the Year 2025**

  
John is entered into the 2025 Restorer of the Year competition. You can vote for your favourite in a future issue of **Practical Classics** magazine.

‘This is my first restoration!’

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Things once green are turning blue in Wigan

  
1 - **Humber down under**  
In New Zealand, the Hillman Super Minx was available as a Humber 90. This was so Rootes could obtain more licences for local Completely Knocked Down (CKD) kit assembly.  
2 - **Oz upgrade**  
Over in Australia, the Cambridge was fitted with the 1622cc B-series engine from launch in 1959. British versions didn’t upgrade from their standard 1489cc unit until 1961.  
3 - **Regal procession**  
The Regal 3/25’s designation came from it having three wheels and 25bhp, the latter courtesy of Reliant’s new 600cc overhead-valve aluminium engine in place of previous side-valves.  
4 - **Diesel days**  
Class 25s had six-cylinder 1250hp engines. No. D7554 (left) entered service in 1965 and was withdrawn in 1980, while D7643 (right) was new in 1966 and scrapped in 1981.  
We’re near the end of a transformation of the UK’s rail system here. Mainline steam had less than a year left in service, and British Railways was metamorphosing into British Rail. These two Class 25 diesel-electric locomotives in Wigan North Western station yard showcase the old and new liveries; D7554 on the left in grimy green and D7643 in fresher ‘Corporate Blue’ with double arrow logos.  
There are a few green and blue cars resting alongside, too. We start with a pale green Reliant Regal 3/25, one of the few cars to be inspired by the Ford Anglia 105E’s rear window styling. It’s nose-to-nose with a blue Austin A55 Cambridge. The fins continue with the folded-over ones of the Hillman Super Minx MkIII beyond. Like the locomotives they’re parked by, neither BJP 159C (the Reliant) or PTF 274C (the Hillman) survive today.  
**Landcrab sandwich**  
Next comes a Vauxhall Victor FC 101, making a sandwich filling out of a Morris 1800 MkI, as there’s another FC 101 right behind the Landcrab. The fencing doesn’t help with identifying the adjacent cars but their familiar curvy shape does; two Morris Minors, one a 1000 saloon, the other a Traveller. The Vauxhall Viva HB bookending the row must have been quite new as the model was only launched in October 1966. A red Commer TS3 van derivative – possibly in Royal Mail service judging by the colour – can be seen in the distance, as can an Austin 1100 parked on the other side of the rail goods van to it.  
Today, all of this yard has disappeared under a multi-storey car park. So, lots of cars still, but no Class 25s anymore. Shame.  
  
**WHAT’S HAPPENING IN 1967**  
**IN THE NEWS**  
Australian Prime Minister Harold Holt disappeared in December while swimming in rough water off Cheviot Beach, Victoria. His body was never found, giving rise to conspiracy theories including suicide, assassination or being picked up by a Chinese sub because he was a spy. Melbourne memorialised him by naming a swimming pool after him. Yes, really.

  
**AT THE FLICKS**  
Peter Cook rewrote _Faust_ for laughs and translated it to Sixties London in Bedazzled. TV comedy partner Dudley Moore played a man offered seven wishes by the devil (Cook, naturally) in return for his soul. Cook also sang the title track as part of the fictional rock band Drimble Wedge and the Vegetation. Raquel Welch, meanwhile, was Lust…

  
**IN THE CHARTS**  
Another (originally) fictional band were the Monkees, created for a US TV sitcom before eventually metamorphosing into a proper group in their own right. They had four top 10 singles in the British charts during 1967, starting with the number one _I’m a Believer_ and also including _A Little Bit Me, A Little Bit You_ and _Daydream Believer_.

  
Aston Martin DBS  
DAF 55  
Iso Fidia  
Toyota 2000GT  
TVR Vixen  
**WORDS** RICHARD GUNN **PHOTO** COLOUR-RAIL/RICHARD CHANCELLOR

Memory Lane: Wigan, Lancashire, October 1967

**WISE BUYER**  
Values of the ultimate Eighties sports car are rising, so here’s how to bag one now!

Well proportioned shape and neat lines still eye catching.  
**Why you want one**  
With the MGB, Midget and TR7 dead and the Alfa Spider and Fiat X1/9 showing their age, Toyota unveiled the MR2 to a delighted press and public in 1984. This perfectly proportioned car had the Eighties looks, exceptional packaging, peerless Toyota engineering, stiff body and road manners from the hand of Lotus engineer Roger Becker. More than 14,000 MkI models were built but, as you’d expect, the numbers dwindled thanks to Eighties rustproofing (or lack of).  
Of the cars left, you’ll find there were three types sold in the UK. The MkIa was unleashed to UK buyers in 1985 with a twin-cam 1587cc four-cylinder engine that’ll rev to 7600rpm. All had a removable ‘moon roof’ that can be stowed in the nose, while a few early cars had two-tone paint. The MkIb was introduced in October 1985 with better brakes, a face-lifted interior and externally, a two-piece front splitter to counter high-speed lift, plus many other minor revisions. You may find one of the rare, supercharged models, but this will have been imported so look for the conversion from kph to mph on the speedo. Whichever you find, you’ll be welcomed with open arms by the likes of the MR2 Drivers Club, which organises a free, once a year, event that’s open to all.  
**The inspection**  
Check for corrosion in the rear wheelarches, where it spreads to the quarter valances. Missing rear mudflaps are a giveaway. The seam that runs across the bulkhead behind the spare wheel in the front luggage compartment rots on pre-1987 cars, as does the front valance; later MR2s got a plastic valance. Water can collect in the rearmost corners of the luggage bay behind the engine; removing the rubber bungs will let it drain. Replacing the bonded-in windscreen can lead to problems, because fitters often dig out the sealant and take the paint with it. If the car is a T-bar with leaking seals it’ll be even worse, so lift the carpets to check for holed metal. The inner front wheelarch liners – and on later versions the side skirts – can fill up with leaves which leads to rotten A-pillars. If the doors are creaking it’s caused by worn door stay pins, which are easily cured by rotating the pin through 90 degrees.  
**MARKET ANALYSIS**  
Rusty projects in need of total restoration can be bought for around a grand, while nicer project cars will cost a grand or so more. To put that in perspective, a 1987 car in need of TLC sold for £2650 at Barons in October last year, while two others were auctioned through Mathewsons in November – a 1989 MR2 in the same family for 30 years for £2200, and a 1988 model in original condition but in need of revival for £3870. Roadworthy cars in better condition can be had for around £5000, it seems, but you’ll pay substantially more for a minter. Then there’s the supercharged MR2 – one of which in good order was snapped up for £9180 at Anglia Car Auctions last summer.  
Check that all the bungs are in the various holes on the underside of the chassis, especially under the footwells and seats, because water can enter here through damaged underseal and go undetected beneath the carpets. The inner bulkhead can rot and then leak. If the corrosion is on the passenger side it can be repaired by removing the glovebox and lower dash panel, but on the driver’s side the whole dash must be removed, which is why repairs at a specialist will cost at least £300. The front bumper reinforcement bar corrodes so squeeze the bumper moulding where the indicators are mounted – problems there could give you headaches or cost around £500 to put right by your friendly welder.

Cabin is snug, but nicely made and full of Eighties charm.  
Engines can last 150k miles, or more if looked after. This means cleaning the injectors every 12k miles and changing oil every 6k. The cambelt should’ve been changed within the last five years or 60k; if you don’t want to do it, it’s a £250 job. The main engine problems occur from blown cylinder head gaskets because of weak or poor-quality coolant; check the level in the white plastic expansion tank towards the rear of the engine bay. Also check the tank’s cap because they can crack, allowing air into the system. The cooling system has long pipe runs from the back to the front of the car; coolant changes on a non-level surface can lead to air locks that fool the various temperature sensors, causing idling revs to fluctuate between 600rpm and 2000rpm. A high idle after initial warm up suggests a worn idle-up valve – an electrically operated air solenoid on the input air piping that connects an air pipe to bypass the throttle body and permits a small amount of extra air into the engine when cold; replacement used valves cost £40. The oil pressure should read in the top third of the scale with the engine running above 2000rpm. The engine ECU can pack up and new ones are hard to source, but used replacements are £50. They are not interchangeable from MkIa to MkIb.  
Transmissions on all UK-market MR2s were five-speed manuals that can suffer from worn synchromesh on second gear. At around 100k miles slack develops in the selector mechanism, which initially leads to excessive movement of the gearstick in top gear and develops into jumping out of fifth gear. The clutch is controlled hydraulically and if it seems to be juddering when you’re changing gear, you’ll have to bleed the system before fitting a new clutch plate.  
‘One of the most satisfying sports cars ever made’

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