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Mini marvel

## Practical Classics magazine: for all your classic adventures...

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THE BIG RESTORATION  
Sam Ibbotson’s fastidious Mini revival, all done in a single garage  
**WORDS** MATT TOMKINS **PICTURES** MATT HOWELL

**THE RESTRORER** Son of PC contributor Andy Ibbotson, it’s clear that Sam was bitten by the classic bug early. He currently owns 10 classics and is very much a ‘project person’. His day job is in facilities management for the MOD.

**AS FOUND** Sam made the age-old mistake of buying the Mini from within a dark garage. ‘It looked OK in there’, he says.  
**I**n this job we’re blessed to be introduced to some fantastic people. Bona fide enthusiasts, lunatics if you will, who pour thousands of hours and an even larger number of pounds into reviving wrecks, otherwise destined for the scrapyard.  
It’s a multi-billion-pound industry, but in the cold, Cornish winter air, stood chatting to one such restorer, it’s obviously so much more than that. I first met Sam Ibbotson some years ago on the hallowed fields of the Beaulieu Autojumble. He and his dad, Andy – now a PC contributor himself – had come to the PC stand to chat all things Mini and Morris Minor. It was immediately clear that these were a pair who were badly afflicted.

Later dash: no central clock.  
The Mini sat before us today, a 1995 Cooper 1.3i, is testament not only to Sam’s immense skills but also his unwavering willingness to learn ‘on the job’. ‘I always wanted a Mini’ says Sam, ‘But dad bought me an Austin 1300 as my first car instead – being an ungrateful teenager, that soon went, and I bought my first Mini (a Sprite SPI) not long after.’ Sam had to sell that Mini when he went to university, but it wasn’t long before its place was taken by a split-screen Morris Minor – that’s where the tinkering started. ‘With the SPI Minis, things seem to work pretty well. They don’t need constant tweaking and tinkering like a carburettor-fed car, so it wasn’t until I was driving the Minor that I had to really roll my sleeves up and learn.’ A previous Cooper taught Sam bodywork skills, requiring a replacement door skin among other things, but when this one came along, it was a different challenge entirely. ‘I made the cardinal error of viewing it in a dark garage, not in the daylight’, confesses Sam. ‘In hindsight, I probably shouldn’t have bought it, but here we are!’ It was a non-runner at point of purchase – which really should have been the easy bit. ‘I didn’t think that would be too much of a problem, we had lots of bits laying around and previous experience with Minis and Minors, which share the A-series engine and ancillaries, and the bodywork didn’t look too bad.’ Unfortunately for Sam ‘It had been bodged quite well’. But we’ll get on to that. The first job was to try and get it running.

Plenty of sound deadening lays beneath the carpet.  
**Plan of action**  
The plan was that Sam and his dad, Andy, would take a week offtogether, get the car running and driving, patch up a few holes and avoid the need for a full strip down and restoration for at least the short term. That wasn’t to be. ‘When we started to strip it down, we realised that the previous owner had used it as a first foray into the world of tinkering. The cooling system was brimmed with fresh engine oil, the tricksy SPI unit had been inexpertly messed with and numerous welding repairs had been finished off with duct tape underneath paint and sealant.  
It was a catalogue of issues.’ The chaps looked at each other with raised eyebrows, as the mounting list of ‘while we’re here’ jobs increased. It became obvious very quickly that this was going to be more than a week’s work. Sills, inner A-panels, door skins, rear valance, boot floor, front wings… a full restoration beckoned.  
‘The previous owner had used the car as a first foray into the world of tinkering’

A packed bay that demonstrates the Mini’s extraordinary evolution.  
**Panel problems**  
Plenty of ‘normal Mini welding’ followed. ‘The biggest bugbear was with the fit of pattern panels’ sighs Sam. ‘The scuttle panel we bought was particularly bad – whatever I did with the bonnet adjustment, it simply wouldn’t sit right at the back, even if drawn forward to the point where it was causing issues at the front. A Heritage panel saved the day, so that was lesson number one: buy once, buy right.’ Factory spot welds were studiously drilled out before replacement panels were plug welded in their place with the MIG welder, while seam welded repairs were undertaken where full panels were deemed unnecessary. New door skins replaced rotten originals before finally, oh finally, he was left with a straight and solid shell ready for paint. Sounds easy if you say it quickly, doesn’t it?  
Prep and paint of the bare shell followed, all carried out by Sam in Andy’s single garage. The colour, Almond Green, isn’t original for the car, which was originally supplied in metallic British Racing Green, but Sam’s deviation from original specification wasn’t without good reason. ‘I had never sprayed metallic and, given that I would be painting it in the garage – somewhere we’ve had problem with silicones in the paint before – I didn’t want to have the added complications of panel orientation that come with spraying metallics. Besides, this is a car I built to use, I wanted to be able to touch it up should the need arise, which is far easier with a flat colour. I didn’t want to be scared to use it.’ Sam continues ‘There are actually two shades of Almond Green, a Sixties one and a Nineties one – this is the latter and was applied to some special edition Minis in 1995 anyway.’

Headlining was particularly tricky, but Sam got there in the end.

Silicone brake fluid should ensure system longevity.  
**The heart of the matter**  
Mechanical work continued apace alongside the bodywork, the Cooper’s 1275cc heart receiving a rebore, fresh pistons, a crank grind, new shells, camshaft bearings and suchlike while the original subframes received meticulous repairs, fresh bushes and bearings where required - a previous owner having already thrown a significant amount of money on upgrades such as Hi-Lows and Spax dampers. While the engine was apart, the gearbox went away and was replaced by a reconditioned unit – but as Sam reports, that was not smooth sailing. ‘When I got the car all back together, it was immediately obvious that something was wrong with the ’box. On the first test-drive, it jumped out of top gear, and under load in both first and reverse a horrendous screech filled the cabin and oil coated the floor’.  
Out it came and back to the specialist it was shipped. Multiple phone calls later, the ’box was back again, and Sam refitted it and the engine to the car, taking great care not to damage the fresh paint. Problems again and out it came. Eventually, after nearly 18 months of frustration, another new ’box now sits below the engine block and each ratio now engages with the ease one would expect. A huge relief for Sam, I can tell.  
Aside from the frustrations with the gearbox, Sam reveals the single point injection (SPI) system to have been an unexpected source of complication. ‘You simply can’t get many of the SPI-specific parts new’, he laments. ‘When I first stripped the car down, I snapped an injector rail pipe, which had seized in the union, but simply assumed I would be able to replace it with another off the shelf.’ Unfortunately, this would prove not to be the case, so much hunting for secondhand parts followed. ‘I now have a good stock of secondhand SPI parts, so should be well-positioned to keep the system in good fettle into the future. Thankfully, Mini Spares is now reproducing all the required vacuum hoses for the SPI – these are a common trouble spot, so I replaced all of mine as a matter of course.’ Once back on the road, there remained some fettling to do – one stepper motor, some careful adjustment of the idle control module and a partially broken wire from the oxygen sensor, which had been causing intermittent non-starting replaced, the engine is now finally running as it should.  
It's not been a project without its challenges, then, which could easily have pushed other restorers to the limit and beyond. But the finished result before us is a true demonstration of what can be achieved with focus, dedication and skill. Despite inevitable calls on his time from an ever-growing fleet, Sam has managed to ensure the Mini a level of finish befitting of the groundwork he put in to it. It’s a car that drives and feels just as good as it looks, and one of which Sam should be extremely proud.  
‘On the first test drive, it jumped out of top gear, with a horrible screech’

Sam’s next project, a Clubman, to which he’ll apply all learnings from the Cooper.  
  
**Here’s how Sam did it…**

**1 DECEMBER 2019 - Strip down**  
When the car arrived home, Sam realised he could see daylight from behind the dash. Then things escalated…

**2 MARCH 2020 - Weld on**  
Afresh pair of front wings are plug welded into place.

**3 MAY 2020 - Prime time**  
High-build primer applied, Sam and partner Danny get to work with countless hours of filling and flatting.

**4 SEPTEMBER 2020 - Paint it green**  
With the garage decked with sheets, Sam applied the top coats of Almond Green himself.

**5 MARCH 2021 - Big build**  
With the shell resplendent in its colour coats, the car ‘just’ needed putting back together, every single part having been refurbished or replaced.

Those 12in wheels with 165/60 tyres fill the arches nicely.  
  
**TECH SPEC**  
**Engine** 1275cc/4-cyl/OHV  
**Power** 62bhp@5700rpm  
**Torque** 70lb ft@3900rpm  
**Gearbox** 4-speed manual  
**0-60 mph** 11.5sec  
**Top speed** 92mph  
**Fuel economy** 36.2mpg  
  
**WHAT'S IT LIKE TO DRIVE**

Just look at that grin!  
It's no secret that the ‘hot seat’ of any Mini is one of the greatest places to be for any petrolhead, and something that everyone with oil in their veins should experience. Having folded myself behind the wheel of Sam's car, I’m immediately struck by the lightness and tightness of this car. Everything from that rebuilt gearbox – I’m so pleased Sam persevered with it – which snicks precisely between ratios to the perky engine up-front which responds eagerly to even the lightest jab of the right foot, testament to Sam’s fastidious attitude and experience with A-series engines. The suspension feels taught and the interior is quiet and free from knocks and rattles, with perfection achieved from headlining to carpet set. While the ‘go’ is impressive, the diminutive brakes tucked behind the Cooper’s tiny 12in wheels are also sharp and responsive.  
This really is an addictive driving experience, a cut above other Mini’s I’ve driven. This car is so much more than the sum of its parts and is one I really don’t want to return the keys to!  
  
**USEFUL CONTACTS**  
British Motor Heritage, :a[bmh-ltd.com]{href='https://bmh-ltd.com' } Mini Spares, :a[minispares.com]{href='https://minispares.com' } Paul Inch Engine Services, :a[paulinch.co.uk]{href='https://paulinch.co.uk' }  
  
**Restorer of the Year 2026**  
Restorer of the Year celebrates the shed heroes who, every year, produce extraordinary work breathing life back into basket cases and bringing classics that are going nowhere back to the road. We’ll scour the land to bring you the very best then, early in 2026, you get to nominate your favourite restos. From your top ten nominations our panel of experts will select the top five nominees so that you can meet the winner at the **PC** Classic Car and Restoration show at the NEC next March.

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In the Spring 2025 issue of Practical Classics, there’s a special look back at 45 years of our magazine, with memories from our writers who tell us about their favourite restorations and road trips.

Meanwhile, we meet Sam, a man on a mission to transform his Mini at home from basket case to showstopper and check out a stunning Ford Orion with an extraordinary story. We head for the Mediterranean to meet a dedicated Skoda Favorit and Austin Maestro fan, while James crashes his Berlingo in Spain.

There are in-depth guides on the Jaguar XJ S1-S3 and Nissan Figaro, a special journey for a special Frontera and a road trip aboard a Talbot Lotus Sunbeam. Meanwhile at the workshop, we’re looking at braking faults and the best way of waking up your classic after a winter slumber, plus updates on the team’s classics – Scimitar, 2CV, MGF, Standard Ten and Morris Minor!

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BUYER'S BRIEF  
The XJ is still top of the pile, yet remains remarkable value in 2025…

For power, comfort and sheer style, the XJ is pretty hard to beat.  
Around six grand should be your starting point for a good XJ. Less than that and you should be asking the seller some very serious questions about its history and their reasons for flogging it. You should get a very agreeable example for around £10,000, if recent auction results are anything to go by. To give you an idea, Hampson Auctions saw a 1968 car sell for £10,688 last summer, while a 1973 S1 needing a little attention went for £8331 at Mathewsons in November. Spend a few thousand extra or more, and you’ll be looking at very nice low mileage or professionally restored saloons and coupés. At the other end of the scale, check your barn find very carefully as a scruffy XJ project can soon get out of hand.  
**Why you want one**  
With mid-Sixties Jaguar showrooms crammed with shiny examples of S Type, 240, 340, 420 and 420G, the arrival of the XJ6 rationalised Jaguar’s range while drawing the best of all those cars into one svelte package. So good was that package, and so distinctive from the rest of the executive pack, the XJ6 lasted almost a quarter of a century and set the theme for big Jags until only recently. The distinctive and unique XJ6 shape came from the pen of Chief Engineer Bob Knight, after Jaguar boss Sir William Lyons asked for ‘a saloon car with the handling of an E-type’. While it relied heavily on parts from other cars in house, including the E-type’s independent rear suspension layout and twin-cam, straight-six powerplant, the car looked like no other exec. It still has immense presence today. But which one to buy?  
If you’re looking for an early model, you’ll find your Series 1 with a 2.8-litre or 4.2-litre version of the XK straight-six. Power steering was standard on De Luxe 2.8s and the 4.2. The Daimler 4.2 was launched later in 1969 and may have the optional air con. All cars got the twin fuel tanks – a feature inherited from the S-type and MkX. A long wheelbase version was available from 1972, as was the XJ12 model with its 5.3-litre unit.  
The Series 2 was introduced in 1973 and is recognisable by its higher front bumper (for US crash regulations) and shallower grille. All models now had the longer wheelbase (4in extra) body. The XJ gained revised engines with a 3.4-litre unit acting as the entry-level and saw the launch of the elegant pillarless coupé. The Series 3 arrived in 1979, with Pininfarina tweaked styling, new rear lights, a bigger glass area and improved headroom. While the svelte lines were rightly praised, it was the refinement and ride comfort – the latter rarely bettered since – that really grabbed people’s attention. The Series 1 marked the start of a model line that lasted until 1987 in XJ6 form, although the S3 Daimler Double-Six version soldiered on for another five years.  
**The inspection**  
Classics don’t come better cherished than a big Jag, but while parts and expertise are (mostly) available, there are still some challenges to restoration and maintenance. Starting with corrosion, any visible rust is often the tip of the iceberg. You may need to carefully consider fabrication because, for instance, original front wings can command a good few hundred quid apiece, with repair sections around £40. Add £300+ if you can’t do the job yourself. Good used doors can be bagged for about £200, although a brand-new skin from a specialist is around £300. Your chosen XJ may have been bodged, so analyse the bottoms of the A-,Band C-pillars along with the sills and rear wheelarches. Radius arms (£175 each) require close inspection, as do the trickyto-repair front and rear screen surrounds; the S3 is the most likely to be affected in this manner because of its bonded-in screen.

**CABIN** Slow electric windows are often down to corrosion in the guides leading to the glass being pinched. Stripping each door down is time-consuming, but worthwhile.  
Under the bonnet, expect oil pressure of 40psi when cruising; some consumption is normal, but lots of smoke on the over-run or when the throttle is blipped points to hardened valve stem seals or worn valve guides on the six-cylinder. Budget £3000 to fix this if you’re paying somebody else to do the job, but complications such as corrosion or cracks in the cylinder block (the latter more likely with the S1 and S2) might necessitate a rebuild. Budget £7k-10k for a specialist to remove the engine, rebuild and refit it. It’s more than possible to do it yourself though, with loads of expertise out there to help you on your way.  
Only V12s and 4.2 Series 3s from 1977 got electronic fuel injection; all other XJs have SU carbs. From 1971 the latter got an automatic choke called an AED (Automatic Enrichment Device), which wears then fails, leading to poor starting. For around £200 the AED can be re-built or converted to a manual system; the latter doesn’t fix the common problem of the lower diaphragm failing and leaking fuel internally. Poor running can also be because of water in the fuel. The fillers are mounted horizontally on top of the rear wings; blocked drains and perished seals allow water to seep directly into the two fuel tanks, with inevitable results. LPG conversions must be done by a specialist. Tank capacity ranges from 60 litres to 130, fuel economy figures drop by 20 per cent, but LPG costs just 50p a litre.

**ENGINE** The straight-six (XK) or 5.3-litre V12 engines will cover 300,000 miles if looked after properly.  
All V12s and most six-cylinder cars had an automatic gearbox. Auto 3.4 and 4.2 S2s and pre1978 V12s featured a Borg Warner transmission; later XJ12s had a GM400 Hydramatic. Some Series 1 Model 8 and Model 12 Borg Warner transmissions can be clunky with their ratio changes, even when in good condition; later XJs were better. Inspect the fluid for colour, level and condition. The manual gearbox is strong and most S1s and S2s have overdrive; the Series 3 offered a five-speed gearbox without overdrive. If the overdrive is slow to engage, chances are the oil probably needs changing or the level has dropped.  
Unevenly worn tyres are normally caused by tired balljoints. XJs had lower balljoints with adjustable shims and a grease nipple in the upper ball joints until the late Eighties. Later cars got sealed joints from Lemforder; these are interchangeable with earlier cars, are highly recommended and should be fitted for around £30 apiece. Worn suspension and rear subframe bushes are common so check that they haven’t split, knocking the geometry out. The top front wishbone bushes normally wear first; new ones cost £40 plus an hour’s labour to fit. A complete kit of front suspension bushes costs £175 with replacement generally straightforward. Early S1s had solid front brake discs from the S-type; later cars got ventilated front discs. Alloy four-pot calipers are available with cross-drilled discs and harder brake pads, transforming stopping power and improving the driving experience of the magnificent XJ even further.

**BODYWORK** Look out for rusty front and rear valances, along with the spare wheel well, door bottoms and rear radius arm mounts.  
  
What it's like to live with  
**James Walshe** recounts his XJ experiences

With an abundance of specialists out there, relatively speaking, owning an XJ is something of a breeze these days. Certainly, according to my mate Chris, who has been wafting about in his Daimler Double Six for the past year, he prefers it to the family VW Touran. ‘It’s thirsty, but the Jaguar has been a lot less trouble – and it’s cheaper and easier to fix than the modern junk!’ More recently, I had a go in my friend Tom’s S3 3.4 – a bog-standard model with cloth seats. That example too had proven itself to be reliable, yet with a feeling of unique sophistication that rivals failed to capture at the time – despite many of them crowing about superior quality. Sure, aspects such as the ingenious folding glovebox mirror look fragile, but that character flows from every corner of the XJ. It’s hard not to be captivated.  
The car you see in these pages is a pre-production straight-six XJ, which we took back to Browns Lane. Hand-built by a team under the then 22-yearold Development Engineer Jonathan Heynes, it was test driven by Norman Dewis before becoming a press car and later a gift from William Lyons to his mate, the Chairman of the West Midlands Passenger Transport Authority. Our visit to Browns Lane with the XJ was an emotional one. Operations at the site were completely wrapped up by 2005, the assembly halls were demolished three years after that, and the museum building went in 2012. Gaydon might be home to a vastly superior museum facility, but the sight of our XJ in front of the old Jaguar Social Club made our legs wobble with pride. This is more than just a big old barge. It is a car with common sense, an unruffled disposition and a smooth, charming character. It’s the very best of Great Britain on four wheels.

More gentle cruiser than B-road bruiser.  
  
**WHAT TO PAY**  
**PROJECT** £1000-3500  
**GOOD** £4000£10,000  
**EXCELLENT** £10,000-£20,000  
**TECH SPEC**  
**ENGINE** 2792CC/6-CYL/OHC  
**POWER** 147BHP@5750RPM  
**TORQUE** 182LB FT@3750RPM  
**TOP SPEED** 118MPH  
**0-60MPH** 11.1SEC  
**GEARBOX** 3-SPEED AUTO  
**ECONOMY** 18MPG  
  
**USEFUL CONTACTS**  
Jaguar Enthusiasts’ Club, :a[jec.org.uk]{href='https://jec.org.uk' } Jaguar Drivers’ Club, :a[jaguardriver.co.uk]{href='https://jaguardriver.co.uk' } AJ6 Engineering, :a[aj6engineering.co.uk]{href='https://aj6engineering.co.uk' } David Manners, :a[jagspares.co.uk]{href='https://jagspares.co.uk' } SNG Barratt, :a[sngbarratt.com]{href='https://sngbarratt.com' }

Jaguar XJ S1-S3

READER’S STORY  
A worldwide pandemic couldn’t stop **John Kerry** from saving this Ford Orion  
**INTERVIEW & PICTURES** JAMES WALSHE

**AS FOUND** Registered on August 19, 1988, the previous owner bought the Orion from the original one in 1991 and used it regularly for eight years, until parking it up for more than 20 years. John had his work cut out, but began straight away.  
**I**n 2019, I heard about a Ford Orion that was about to be scrapped, because the owner had passed away and the family, left with the difficult task of sorting out his things, didn’t know what to do with it. Suddenly, I was the new owner of a 1988 Orion 1.6 Ghia with just 46,000 miles – and lots of rust. I’d need to learn some new skills to bring it back! Initially I got tips from my brother-in-law, Terry. He took me through the process of welding one of the sills and, after trying it myself, he came over to visit one day and suggested that I probably didn’t need his help anymore! I pick up these things quite quickly. Around that time, I’d seen TV’s Paul Cowland talking about a welding course in Northampton, so I paid to do a day there and it made all the difference.  
When the pandemic hit in 2020, I couldn’t work for two months as I’m a self-employed decorator. I therefore quickly bought all the panels I still needed, as I reckoned other blokes would be doing the same! I paid fifty quid for a front wing, £90 for a rear panel, then bagged myself four new doors, a front panel, battery tray, four new floor pans, inner and outer sills. The rear arches were bad, so I found a full five-door Escort rear quarter section for the areas of metal I needed. My wife Trina initially hit the roof when she saw the bills mounting. But she understood – I had time on my hands, and it was important for me to keep myself busy.  
Work progressed, with our garage busy with endless cutting and welding! There were challenges, for example the bulkhead around the servo mount and battery tray area – that was rusted out. Blackpool-based Ford breaker Sean Lomax sorted me out with a replacement bulkhead, for which I set off for at 4am one morning. I was back home working on it by 11am! I spent day after day on the car, carefully turning a rusty shell into something with greater strength than before, making the odd mistake and putting it right. But I felt it had to be the best it could be. It was a similar story having removed the headlining, which is when I noticed a big hole in the sunroof area. The frame itself was rotten, along with the cassette that it drops into. I had planned to weld it all up, but found everything I needed from a full roof that was for sale in Manchester for £150! That ended up being the only bit of welding I didn’t do myself – the job was just a bit too tricky for me, so my pal Andy did it. His skills are way beyond mine!  
Part of my trade involves spraying kitchens and furniture, so I decided to have a go at a car. I bare metalled the underside of it on the A-frame and added two coats of epoxy, two coats of base and three coats of lacquer, then prepared everything else ready for the respray. Doing the prep myself saved a lot of money, although I still got an understandably sizeable bill from the paint shop! Worth it though – it looks brilliant, as do the powder coated wheels.  
I’d removed the engine earlier and gave it a complete overhaul, with a little of Terry’s guidance. He’s a brilliant mechanic and helped me to work through a lot of my mistakes, as it was the first engine I’ve ever rebuilt. He’d pop over and give me tips until I learned to do it on my own. I then replaced any of the ancillaries that couldn’t be restored and added reproduction decals for the factory look. I couldn’t have done it without people like Mikey Marshall – a fount of knowledge I met through the Orion Facebook page. He answered many questions at ‘daft o clock’ via text message.  
There are times you must think differently, too. The original headlights weren’t the best. So, with replacement right-hand drive units costing up to £500, I combined my original lenses with a brand-new left-hand drive pair I’d found. To separate the lenses from the unit, I put them in the oven for 20 minutes and stank the house out. When the time came for an MOT, I was just so happy with the car. To top it off, the MOT was done by Peter at Barron Motors – the very man who last MOT’d this car back in the Nineties!  
  
**REAR END**  
After finding rusty holes in the rear panel under the rubber seal, John found a replacement for £90 from a seller in Sheffield. But it was during a Covid lockdown, so it was a few months before John could get his hands on it!

  
**LIGHTS**  
Lights are a combination of two pairs. Unsticking and separation of lens from the unit meant putting them in the oven for 20 minutes.

**ENGINE**  
Orion’s engine was stripped and rebuilt using many new parts. Pre-MOT panic over a misfire was sorted with a set of higher quality HT leads.

**ARCHES**  
John took welding classes before tackling the floors, sills and wings. Specifically, he wanted to learn how to fix his Orion’s rusty arches.  
**COCKPIT**  
Orion’s comfy Ghia interior was mildly modified, with ‘Hide n Seat’ in Norwich sourcing new old stock fabric for the Recaro seats.  
  
**TIME TAKEN** 4 years  
**EST. COST** £8k  
**BEST HELP** ‘If you lack the skills, there are courses out there just for you. For what you end up with, it’s worth every penny!’  
  
**Practical Classics Restorer of the Year 2025**

  
John is entered into the 2025 Restorer of the Year competition. You can vote for your favourite in a future issue of **Practical Classics** magazine.

‘This is my first restoration!’

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Things once green are turning blue in Wigan

  
1 - **Humber down under**  
In New Zealand, the Hillman Super Minx was available as a Humber 90. This was so Rootes could obtain more licences for local Completely Knocked Down (CKD) kit assembly.  
2 - **Oz upgrade**  
Over in Australia, the Cambridge was fitted with the 1622cc B-series engine from launch in 1959. British versions didn’t upgrade from their standard 1489cc unit until 1961.  
3 - **Regal procession**  
The Regal 3/25’s designation came from it having three wheels and 25bhp, the latter courtesy of Reliant’s new 600cc overhead-valve aluminium engine in place of previous side-valves.  
4 - **Diesel days**  
Class 25s had six-cylinder 1250hp engines. No. D7554 (left) entered service in 1965 and was withdrawn in 1980, while D7643 (right) was new in 1966 and scrapped in 1981.  
We’re near the end of a transformation of the UK’s rail system here. Mainline steam had less than a year left in service, and British Railways was metamorphosing into British Rail. These two Class 25 diesel-electric locomotives in Wigan North Western station yard showcase the old and new liveries; D7554 on the left in grimy green and D7643 in fresher ‘Corporate Blue’ with double arrow logos.  
There are a few green and blue cars resting alongside, too. We start with a pale green Reliant Regal 3/25, one of the few cars to be inspired by the Ford Anglia 105E’s rear window styling. It’s nose-to-nose with a blue Austin A55 Cambridge. The fins continue with the folded-over ones of the Hillman Super Minx MkIII beyond. Like the locomotives they’re parked by, neither BJP 159C (the Reliant) or PTF 274C (the Hillman) survive today.  
**Landcrab sandwich**  
Next comes a Vauxhall Victor FC 101, making a sandwich filling out of a Morris 1800 MkI, as there’s another FC 101 right behind the Landcrab. The fencing doesn’t help with identifying the adjacent cars but their familiar curvy shape does; two Morris Minors, one a 1000 saloon, the other a Traveller. The Vauxhall Viva HB bookending the row must have been quite new as the model was only launched in October 1966. A red Commer TS3 van derivative – possibly in Royal Mail service judging by the colour – can be seen in the distance, as can an Austin 1100 parked on the other side of the rail goods van to it.  
Today, all of this yard has disappeared under a multi-storey car park. So, lots of cars still, but no Class 25s anymore. Shame.  
  
**WHAT’S HAPPENING IN 1967**  
**IN THE NEWS**  
Australian Prime Minister Harold Holt disappeared in December while swimming in rough water off Cheviot Beach, Victoria. His body was never found, giving rise to conspiracy theories including suicide, assassination or being picked up by a Chinese sub because he was a spy. Melbourne memorialised him by naming a swimming pool after him. Yes, really.

  
**AT THE FLICKS**  
Peter Cook rewrote _Faust_ for laughs and translated it to Sixties London in Bedazzled. TV comedy partner Dudley Moore played a man offered seven wishes by the devil (Cook, naturally) in return for his soul. Cook also sang the title track as part of the fictional rock band Drimble Wedge and the Vegetation. Raquel Welch, meanwhile, was Lust…

  
**IN THE CHARTS**  
Another (originally) fictional band were the Monkees, created for a US TV sitcom before eventually metamorphosing into a proper group in their own right. They had four top 10 singles in the British charts during 1967, starting with the number one _I’m a Believer_ and also including _A Little Bit Me, A Little Bit You_ and _Daydream Believer_.

  
Aston Martin DBS  
DAF 55  
Iso Fidia  
Toyota 2000GT  
TVR Vixen  
**WORDS** RICHARD GUNN **PHOTO** COLOUR-RAIL/RICHARD CHANCELLOR

Memory Lane: Wigan, Lancashire, October 1967

**WISE BUYER**  
Values of the ultimate Eighties sports car are rising, so here’s how to bag one now!

Well proportioned shape and neat lines still eye catching.  
**Why you want one**  
With the MGB, Midget and TR7 dead and the Alfa Spider and Fiat X1/9 showing their age, Toyota unveiled the MR2 to a delighted press and public in 1984. This perfectly proportioned car had the Eighties looks, exceptional packaging, peerless Toyota engineering, stiff body and road manners from the hand of Lotus engineer Roger Becker. More than 14,000 MkI models were built but, as you’d expect, the numbers dwindled thanks to Eighties rustproofing (or lack of).  
Of the cars left, you’ll find there were three types sold in the UK. The MkIa was unleashed to UK buyers in 1985 with a twin-cam 1587cc four-cylinder engine that’ll rev to 7600rpm. All had a removable ‘moon roof’ that can be stowed in the nose, while a few early cars had two-tone paint. The MkIb was introduced in October 1985 with better brakes, a face-lifted interior and externally, a two-piece front splitter to counter high-speed lift, plus many other minor revisions. You may find one of the rare, supercharged models, but this will have been imported so look for the conversion from kph to mph on the speedo. Whichever you find, you’ll be welcomed with open arms by the likes of the MR2 Drivers Club, which organises a free, once a year, event that’s open to all.  
**The inspection**  
Check for corrosion in the rear wheelarches, where it spreads to the quarter valances. Missing rear mudflaps are a giveaway. The seam that runs across the bulkhead behind the spare wheel in the front luggage compartment rots on pre-1987 cars, as does the front valance; later MR2s got a plastic valance. Water can collect in the rearmost corners of the luggage bay behind the engine; removing the rubber bungs will let it drain. Replacing the bonded-in windscreen can lead to problems, because fitters often dig out the sealant and take the paint with it. If the car is a T-bar with leaking seals it’ll be even worse, so lift the carpets to check for holed metal. The inner front wheelarch liners – and on later versions the side skirts – can fill up with leaves which leads to rotten A-pillars. If the doors are creaking it’s caused by worn door stay pins, which are easily cured by rotating the pin through 90 degrees.  
**MARKET ANALYSIS**  
Rusty projects in need of total restoration can be bought for around a grand, while nicer project cars will cost a grand or so more. To put that in perspective, a 1987 car in need of TLC sold for £2650 at Barons in October last year, while two others were auctioned through Mathewsons in November – a 1989 MR2 in the same family for 30 years for £2200, and a 1988 model in original condition but in need of revival for £3870. Roadworthy cars in better condition can be had for around £5000, it seems, but you’ll pay substantially more for a minter. Then there’s the supercharged MR2 – one of which in good order was snapped up for £9180 at Anglia Car Auctions last summer.  
Check that all the bungs are in the various holes on the underside of the chassis, especially under the footwells and seats, because water can enter here through damaged underseal and go undetected beneath the carpets. The inner bulkhead can rot and then leak. If the corrosion is on the passenger side it can be repaired by removing the glovebox and lower dash panel, but on the driver’s side the whole dash must be removed, which is why repairs at a specialist will cost at least £300. The front bumper reinforcement bar corrodes so squeeze the bumper moulding where the indicators are mounted – problems there could give you headaches or cost around £500 to put right by your friendly welder.

Cabin is snug, but nicely made and full of Eighties charm.  
Engines can last 150k miles, or more if looked after. This means cleaning the injectors every 12k miles and changing oil every 6k. The cambelt should’ve been changed within the last five years or 60k; if you don’t want to do it, it’s a £250 job. The main engine problems occur from blown cylinder head gaskets because of weak or poor-quality coolant; check the level in the white plastic expansion tank towards the rear of the engine bay. Also check the tank’s cap because they can crack, allowing air into the system. The cooling system has long pipe runs from the back to the front of the car; coolant changes on a non-level surface can lead to air locks that fool the various temperature sensors, causing idling revs to fluctuate between 600rpm and 2000rpm. A high idle after initial warm up suggests a worn idle-up valve – an electrically operated air solenoid on the input air piping that connects an air pipe to bypass the throttle body and permits a small amount of extra air into the engine when cold; replacement used valves cost £40. The oil pressure should read in the top third of the scale with the engine running above 2000rpm. The engine ECU can pack up and new ones are hard to source, but used replacements are £50. They are not interchangeable from MkIa to MkIb.  
Transmissions on all UK-market MR2s were five-speed manuals that can suffer from worn synchromesh on second gear. At around 100k miles slack develops in the selector mechanism, which initially leads to excessive movement of the gearstick in top gear and develops into jumping out of fifth gear. The clutch is controlled hydraulically and if it seems to be juddering when you’re changing gear, you’ll have to bleed the system before fitting a new clutch plate.  
‘One of the most satisfying sports cars ever made’

Look for rot! Missing mudflaps suggest rusty rear arches.  
Dampers last around 70k miles; adjustable or non-adjustable units can be bought for the same £100 per corner as the originals. A knocking noise from the front when the car is driven over uneven surfaces suggests worn anti-roll bar drop links or tired steering rack bushes. Both are relatively easy replacements for the home mechanic – OE parts cost about £25 per side. Meanwhile, brakes are discs all round. Front discs were initially undersized but from October 1985 larger units were fitted that are less likely to warp, although 30k miles is the most you can expect. The rear calipers can seize because of worn handbrake cables and/ or worn seals, but they’re an easy DIY rebuild, and an official repair kit is under £80. Alternatively, exchange-rebuilt units cost around £100 each, while handbrake cables are £60 a set.  
Inside, late T-bar cars came with perforated leather upholstery that cracks if neglected, while the ashtray on post-1986 cars has a lid that’s prone to snapping off. T-bar MR2s can suffer from compressed sealing rubbers, which leads to water leaks in the cabin. New seals cost £260 per set, but can be tricky to fit. The nylon cogs for the electric windows can strip. Replacements are £25, although a whole regulator mechanism might be required if the main cog has stripped. The driver’s side window switch is prone to failure which may leave you stuck with the window down. Pop-up headlight motors are reliable though! ■

MR2 sensitive to neglect, so fresh oil and coolant is vital.  
  
**WHAT TO PAY**  
**PROJECT** £1000  
**GOOD** £2500-£6000  
**EXCELLENT** £6000-£10,000  
**TECH SPEC**  
**Engine** 1587cc/4-cyl/OHC  
**Power** 122@6600rpm  
**Torque** 104lb ft@5000  
**Gearbox** 5-speed manual  
**Top speed** 124mph  
**0-60mph** 7.7sec  
**Economy** 35mpg  
  
**WHAT WE SAY** **THE ONE TO BUY**

**Danny Hopkins** _Editor_  
The two MkIs I owned – a ‘T-bar’ and ‘moon roof’ – could only have been designed by an enthusiast, for the enthusiast. The steering and handling turned every drive into a computer game joyride and the TVIS (Toyota Variable Induction System), where the ECU opens extra induction valves above about 4200rpm, is absolutely bonkers genius and made me laugh out loud each and every time.

**Matt Tomkins** _Workshop editor_  
There’s nothing quite like the jet-like whine of a supercharger, particularly one that’s just inches from your head as it is in the mid-engined MR2. To get one, though, you’ll be looking at a rare import model, so expect the speedometer to read in kph, unless it’s been converted. Also ensure that if speed restriction devices and warning alarms have been removed, that it’s all been done properly.

**James Walshe** _Deputy ed_  
The small sports car may well prove to be a thing of the past in the next few years, as nobody apart from Mazda is building them nowadays. This makes a little vehicle like the MR2 a precious thing. There’s so much sense to smallness, which gives you more efficiently delivered performance, better economy and handling and lower costs. Buy any kind of small roadster and maybe they'll make a comeback!  
  
**USEFUL CONTACTS**  
**MR2 Drivers’ Club,** :a[mr2dc.com]{href='https://mr2dc.com' }  
**MR2 Owners’ Club,** :a[mr2oc.co.uk]{href='https://mr2oc.co.uk' }  
**MR2 Mk1 Club,** :a[mr2mk1club.com]{href='https://mr2mk1club.com' }  
**T&N Car Parts,** :a[tandnmr2mk1carparts.com]{href='https://tandnmr2mk1carparts.com' }  
**Toyota MR2 Mk1 Spares,** :a[mr2mk1toyotaspares.com]{href='https://mr2mk1toyotaspares.com' }

Toyota MR2

In the April 2025 issue of Practical Classics, we take an in-depth look at the cars launched in 1975. From Leyland’s Princess and the Vauxhall Chevette to Jaguar’s ground-shaking XJ-S, our John Simister takes a spin in each car to see how they stack up.

Our journey around Cornwall in our finished project cars continues as we meet the fine folk of the southwest of England and their classics, while there’s an adventure in the other direction – Scotland in a Volvo 740! You’ll find a guide on how to buy the best VW Beetle and Toyota MR2, while there are stories of epic restorations carried out on a Wood & Pickett Mini and a Delorean.

In our workshop pages, you’ll find tips on rattle can repairs and suspension springs, while our writers tell you about their own 2025 projects – from Fiat 124 Spider and Austin Ten to Citroën Dyane and Trabant!

**Bangernomics** **Adventure**  
Bargain Volvo 740 gives Eighties family holiday vibes with a 1500-mile Highlands to Land’s End road trip

Could be a brochure shot.  
  
**BOUGHT BLIND ON THE INTERNET**  
**Volvo 740**  
High mileage –200k –but used everyday and serviced to support that use. New parts always fitted as required and bodywork kept on top of.  
**Gareth Charlton**

  
I’m impulsive and appalling at judging time or planning ahead. I’m also more of a words than numbers man and even my ‘man maths’ is highly questionable.  
I had more than six months to prepare one of our vehicles for a camping holiday to the far-flung reaches of the Cornish south coast: the T4 Caravelle is perfect for such a trip, except for the head currently being nowhere near the block; and I discounted the pre-Defender One-Ten V8 station wagon at the last minute on account of 1000-plus miles causing equal damage to my wallet and my creaky knee.  
Days before departure, an exquisite teal ’n’ tan solution presented itself in the form of a 1988 Volvo 740 GLE, that was bought completely blind from a lovely lady who’d owned ‘Miss V’ for 22 years. The only downside? It was in Inverness, I live in North Yorkshire and existing commitments meant I’d be setting off for collection from near the south coast.

Sustenance required!  
The only solutions were train or plane… I opted to stay on the ground. I fidgeted on the sleeper train to Inverness and contemplated all the tools that I’d been unable to pack in favour of a sleeping bag. I also questioned my life choices as a cocktail of black coffee and sweets churned. ‘If all runs smoothly I will have time to meet Julie, the 740’s long-term custodian, then drive home to North Yorkshire, while hopefully stopping for some shut-eye on the way,’ I thought. I’d then collect my family and 14-tonnes of camping-focused addenda, and drive to Cornwall.  
I glanced at my phone as an unneeded reminder, which told me that, once the 14-hour train ride was over, I’d have a 779-mile drive ahead of me. In my head, this trip would prove that well-maintained old cars can still be relied upon, that we should stop throwing things away and that summer holidays in the Eighties were much more fun. It’s what Bangernomics is all about.

Boxy styling is actually improving with age.

Big Swede in its natural habitat.  
**Meeting the steed**  
The Volvo 740 in question had always been a daily driver and wore its 200,000 miles with pride. It had clearly been loved, well serviced with belt changes carried out on time, a replacement clutch fitted in recent years and any welding that you’d expect of a 700-series car living in northern Scotland completed successfully. Bar a few bumps and bruises that I was anticipating, it looked very straight and original and, once I’d made a final stop at a cashpoint, I was very happy.

Dog definitely approves!  
Purchase made, and armed with hot food and scolding coffee, I set off lamenting the lack of cupholders and the heightened risk of sustaining lap burns. However there were greater worries afoot. My concerns grew at the unmistakable whiff of burning oil. I was, by this time, in the middle of the Cairgorms and I’m no Bear Grylls. I pulled over to inspect. Fortunately, it was a short stop. An ill-fitting non-OE oil cap that I must have disturbed when giving the car a once-over was letting oil gently seep out on to the exhaust manifold. I cleaned and replaced the cap carefully.  
I needn’t have worried. The 740 completed the drive home effortlessly, swallowed an indecent amount of camping gear and hauled us to Cornwall the following day on only two tanks of fuel. For my taste, this is peak Volvo. The naturally aspirated B230 ‘redblock’ and M46 four-speed manual 'box with overdrive fifth provides a blend of relative mechanical simplicity, economy and quirkiness. It’s practical as well. Across 1500 miles the Volvo returned over 35mpg.

After a good wash and brush up, the new motor was ready to be pressed into holiday duties.  
We camped just outside Helston, which provided the perfect base from which to explore Cornwall’s extremities. As a fitting tribute to Volvo build quality and reliability, the 740 made it to Land’s End less than 48 hours after leaving Inverness and was the perfect family holiday wagon, carrying children, puppy and, seemingly, 50 per cent of the sand in Cornwall with ease.  
If, by now you are thinking a 700 series Volvo might be for you, let me remind you that early examples are now tax exempt – yep, the 740 was 40 in 2024. In total, more than 1.2 million Volvo 700s rolled off the production line before 1992, when the Volvo 940 and Volvo 960 took over the flagship role – parts supply is therefore good, as is club support. Huge passenger space and load capacities meant the Volvo 740 estate became the benchmark in its class from 1985 and its internal dimensions make it a superbly practical classic choice today.

End to end wagon.  
You can tell this Volvo’s been well loved: little things like interior lights and rear wash/wipe all work, it wears recent tyres and stops with fresh discs and pads. It rides fantastically and drives without a hint of rattle, knock or noise from gearbox, diff or wheel bearings. I was also surprised at how nicely it steered, with the rack providing unexpected precision, weight and a very Cornwall-friendly turning circle. The body roll was as you’d expect and the soundtrack memory to the holiday will be of rear mudflaps catching the Tarmac at the faintest opportunity.  
Now that we’re home, the next steps will be to clean out the B230’s flame trap, to eliminate the risk of a blocked breather, give it a much needed polish and fix up the interior – the headlining is makeshift and the Eighties interior plastics are dangerously brittle, which is a risky combination for a man with hands and fingers of sausage and ham.

There’s plenty of hotel room in the back of the capacious Swede, as Gareth found on his journey home from Inverness.  
**THE VERDICT**  
Old Volvos may not live up to all the old stereotypes. Reliable and cavernous yes, but as a week of driving one around tight Cornish lanes proves, they’re significantly smaller externally than the majority of new cars on UK roads. They still affordable, too.

What better way to take in those Cornish coastal views than from the comfort of your Volvo’s tan leather pews.  
**Ben says**

  
‘I’m really glad Gareth mentions the tyres. A daily driver is more likely to have decent rubber than a car that is never used. Always worth asking over the phone before you buy, too.’

Swede Temptation

**ME AND MY RESTO**  
**Vince Moore** needed a new car, so he built one himself using whatever he had to hand  
**INTERVIEW & PICTURES** JAMES WALSHE

**T**his car began as a 1932 Standard Little Nine – a boxy little family car produced between 1930 and 1933. I got it off a chap whose advancing age meant the amount of work involved had become just too much for him. The engine was shot, and the body was completely rotten. The Little Nine’s body is also quite heavy, so I decided to do away with that completely, leaving just the chassis and engine. I’d always fancied a special!  
Living in the far north of Scotland means car restoration can be a bit of a challenge. I power everything via solar panels and, while we have a wind turbine, I turned it off in the end as the wind up here was just too wild for it! When winter comes, it can be difficult as the days are so short but, on a sunny day, you can just about do some welding and get the washing done! Nevertheless, I had a fair idea of what I wanted to create.  
I started at the front. Having raked back the steering to decide what height I wanted the car to be, I found a steel bath in a nearby field and made a grille out of that. It pretty much set the shape of the car. Using strips of cedar and oak, along with some ash, I made a frame – the long strips out of the cedar. Having built and fitted the frame to the chassis, I threw an old bedsheet over it and applied boiled linseed oil. This soaks into the fabric and goes quite rubbery, holding it all together. I then applied red oxide paint, some leftover masonry paint, then more red oxide paint and a coat of cellulose. The most expensive purchase, aside from tyres, was a sheet of aluminium for the bonnet. I didn’t want a roof, so the seat had to be waterproof. I made it out of an old canoe and some faux rattan. Just leftover stuff lying around, really.

The original engine was toast, so I used a tired A-series engine from a Morris Minor that had been donated to me. I rebuilt that and made it fit to the original gearbox – the clutch is an A-series pressure plate with the splined friction plate the original Standard one. I was recently given an original two-bearing Standard engine, so I’ve decided to rebuild that and will install it at some point in the future.  
It has been a thoroughly enjoyable project, which I’ve steadily been able to modify and adapt to my taste. But you must use a bit of ingenuity when you live up here. I had to come up with a solution for the exhaust silencer, so I got a big bore tube, filled it with a spiral of fence wire, surrounded with kitchen pan scourers. I did many of the jobs in my workshop and other aspects of the build in my shed, the roof of which is made from an old boat made on the island of Stromer. I bought that for fifty quid and trailered it home. Stromer hasn’t been lived on for decades and the boat was one of the very last built, we think sometime back in the 1880s.  
My Standard Special is great fun to drive and surprisingly quick. It’ll do 60mph. It was a bit skittish to begin with, so I had to change the castor with wedges between the spring and the axle, while I remade the cable brakes – it’s very primitive, but everything works as it should. I drive it in all weathers and you tend to get very wet when it rains. Once the water warms up though, it’s fine…  
  
**ENGINE**

Currently a Morris Minor A-series with a clutch adapted to fit, it will be replaced by an original Standard unit in due course.  
  
**WORKSHOP**

Inside Vince’s workshop – an upturned Stromer boat from the 1880s, which he bought for £50 and dragged up to the house on his trailer.  
  
**CABIN**

Spartan cabin is a result of Vince’s carpentry skills, and a seat from an old canoe.  
  
**BODYWORK**

It’s a homemade wooden frame covered with a bedsheet soaked in boiled linseed oil and a bathtub for a grille. All perfectly normal.  
  
**DRIVING**

Car was skittish to start with but once he’d modified the suspension, Vince says it’s good for about 60mph tops.  
  
**TIME TAKEN** 3months  
**EST. COST** £1500  
**BEST ADVICE** ‘It’s a good idea to look around you to see what you have lying around. You never know how useful it could be!’

**Practical Classics Restorer of the Year 2025**  
Vince is entered into the 2025 Restorer of the Year competition. You can vote for your favourite in a future issue of _Practical Classics_ magazine.

‘It’s made out of a bathtub and a bedsheet’

**BUYER’S BRIEF**  
Sturdy, easy to own and a great community of owners, here’s how to buy a Bug

**MARKET ANALYSIS**  
Projects cost from £2000, but you’re better off buying something from £4000 that will need less work or is still near MOT ready. Good Beetle saloons are priced from £5000, but you can easily spend double this on a late Sixties saloon. Cars from the late Seventies are less sought after, which is why they only go up to £8000 or so. If you fancy a cabriolet, you can double all these values, with superb open-topped cars fetching as much as £25,000, although only the very best car is worth more than £15,000.  
**Why you want one**  
Volkswagen has never been anything less than candid in its promotion of the Beetle. As its 1975 brochure declares: ‘It’s the car that made us famous’. It then goes on to state that ‘nothing of the original Beetle is left in today’s Beetle’. In slightly different context, that may well be the case with your prospective purchase in 2025, so it’ll pay to study the car closely. We’ve focused here on Beetles from 1965 onwards because they’re more usable, more readily available and more affordable. Worth noting that nothing is interchangeable between the very first and last Beetles. Indeed, there were changes of some sort just about every year.  
You can expect your Beetle to be fitted with an 1192cc or 1285cc engine, while a 1493cc unit was introduced in 1967 and, later, a 1584cc lump. The earlier sloped headlamp design is the purist’s favourite; buy a 1966 or 1967 car and you could have this with 1500 power, making it the pick of the bunch for many. The 1200 model was always aimed at those on a budget; this was the model that was last to get brake, suspension and electrical upgrades.  
The 1302S and 1303S are more usable than most Beetle variants thanks to their 1600 powerplant, bigger boot and MacPherson strut front/semi-trailing arm rear suspension. These days, most Beetles have been modified in some way, but that’s not necessarily a bad thing – it often makes them more usable.  
**The inspection**  
For all their period advertised Volkswagen build quality, Beetles still rust like any other classic. The body bolts to the floor pan, and poor repairs often leave them welded together, complicating future restoration work. Trickier corrosion spots include the windscreen surround and heater channels – a box section running the length of the car on either side, roughly under the doors.  
This hollow space transfers heat from the engine to the interior and suffers from internal condensation. Repair panels are available, but it’s a labour intensive – and so often pricy – job.

**CABIN** There isn’t much to worry about inside the car but if it’s RHD, check it’s genuine as many have been converted. In our view, that’s not an issue if it’s done properly.  
Perished window rubbers will contribute to a dissolving floor, and you must ensure that all the electrics work as they should. Old wiring and poor modifications are potential issues; while the Beetle switched to 12-volt electrics in 1967, earlier cars may also have been converted. Seats are likely to have sagged if they haven’t yet been replaced or re-stuffed and while generally hard-wearing, carpets and seat covers will need refreshing by now. All of this is available but worth bargaining over.  
Overheating – generally caused either by poor tuning or hard driving – will quickly ruin an otherwise sound engine. There's no coolant, of course, so check cooling flaps to be sure that they aren’t corroded and make sure that the oil thermostat hasn’t failed or been removed. The tinware surrounding the engine is important in controlling air flow so make sure that it’s not damaged or missing, while corroded heat exchangers can allow fumes into the cabin with potentially dangerous consequences, so check them carefully.

**BODYWORK** Beetles might have been famed for their build, but they still rot. Happily, bolt-on wings, bonnets, doors and boot lids ensure that they are easy to replace.  
Oil leaks tend to come from the rocker cover gaskets and crankshaft oil seal; fixing the latter is fairly involved but it’s not too difficult to pull out the engine. Noticeable movement at the crank pulley (back and forth) means that there’s excessive crankshaft end float and an imminent re-build is needed. Oil changes every 3000 miles are advisable, so be very suspicious of a car whose owner cannot prove that it has been regularly serviced.  
Power was a bit restricted by carburettors that didn’t allow the engines to sing. There are plenty of alternatives, including single and twin-choke EMPI or Webers. Beetle engines can feel strangled by the factory exhaust, so installing freer-flowing stainless-steel pipes and a manifold can release an extra 10bhp. The Bosch distributor has an unreliable vacuum advance, so swap that for a mechanical one. Change the points and condenser for a Pertronix electronic setup, too. The 6v electrics became 12v in 1967. Any car can be converted for more reliable starting and easier fitment of ancillaries, but it’s a big job with lots needing to be replaced.

**ENGINE** Lumpy running can be caused by perished hoses, an ignition system past its best or valve gear in need of an overhaul.  
The four-speed transmission can suffer from worn synchromesh, and bearings so check for any nasty noises or jumping out of gear on the overrun. Difficulty in selecting gears is often a result of linkages that are out of kilter, which is easy to sort, but test a gearbox that has this issue thoroughly to be sure that it isn’t indicative of general wear. Removing and overhauling the gearbox is very easy, however, so don’t be too put-off by a car with engine or transmission issues if the body is in good order. Low gearing means that the engine can feel busy on motorways. A ‘Freeway Flyer’ gearbox has a higher differential ratio (3.875:1) and fourth gear (0.82:1), but may require a clutch upgrade at the same time.  
The suspension system is a straightforward arrangement of telescopic dampers and torsion bar springs but needs checking for rot around the mounting points and general wear and sagging. Overhauling the drum brakes is a relatively cheap and easy job but do check the steering for excessive play – this can be adjusted, but old boxes will soon run out of available adjustment. So too, a car whose steering wheel is reluctant to return to centre because there's a good chance that someone before you has overtightened the steering box.  
Inside, check for leaky window rubbers as you'll be mopping rainwater off the floors (if they haven't rotted out)! Otherwise, there isn't much inside a Beetle to begin with but if parts are needed, everything is available from specialists and, predictably, it's all easy to fit at home.

More gentle cruiser than B-road blaster.  
  
**USEFUL CONTACTS**  
**VW Owners’ Club GB,** :a[vwocgb.com]{href='https://vwocgb.com' }  
**Historic VW Club,** :a[historicvws.org.uk]{href='https://historicvws.org.uk' }  
**Beetle Werks,** :a[thebeetlewerks.co.uk]{href='https://thebeetlewerks.co.uk' }  
**Heritage Parts Centre,** :a[heritagepartscentre.com]{href='https://heritagepartscentre.com' }  
  
**WHAT TO PAY**  
**PROJECT** £2000-3000  
**GOOD** £3000-5000  
**EXCELLENT** £5000-25,000  
**TECH SPEC**  
**ENGINE** 1584CC/FLAT-4/OHV  
**GEARBOX** 4-SPEED MANUAL  
**POWER** 50BHP@4000RPM  
**TORQUE** 79LB FT@2800RPM  
**TOP SPEED** 81MPH  
**0-60MPH** 12.2SEC  
**ECONOMY** 28-34MPG  
  
**WHAT IT’S LIKE TO OWN**  
**James Walshe** finds out what it’s like to live with a Beetle…

Andrew's Beetle has certainly lived a life!  
From the looks to the unique noise, to it’s… err… history, the Beetle is a shining example of what happens when sunshine emerges from the dark clouds of our past. It is loved almost beyond any car on the planet. Whichever one you buy, you’ll stumble into a community of fellow fans. There has been a Beetle scene for many decades, after all. Owners adore them, but are they as simple and enjoyable to own as you’d expect? ‘It’s like anything else if the car has been bodged’ says Andrew Leggett, who owns a well-travelled 1973 Beetle 1300. ‘It was MOT’d when I bought it, but when I got it home, my mechanic dad insisted I wouldn’t be driving it again until we’d sorted out the rust and body filler. You could almost have lifted the body off the floorpan. It was bad!’ Andrew learned to weld though and set to work on the suspension and brakes. ‘Good thing is parts are cheap and easy to find!’  
It was a similar story for Paul Warren, who restored a 1966 Beetle for his wife Rachael. That said, it feels like Volkswagen made changes to the Beetle every other year so it’s worth researching carefully to check you’re buying the right parts. ‘From bumpers to the cabin, there are subtle differences here and there’ says Paul, who finished the car with help from friends, before Rachael sadly passed away. ‘We’d built Rachael’s dream Beetle, which meant the world to her and to everyone else.’ The car became famous locally at shows and the fact it’s a Beetle makes it even more significant. ‘People just smile wherever you go!’ Sure enough, as we’ve seen on the silver screen and at car shows across the world, these cars have a personality all their own. There’s simply nothing quite like a Beetle. Volkswagen’s own 1973 brochure concludes with words that are as true today as they were back then: ‘The longer this car goes on, the more people love it.’

VW Beetle (1965-1978)

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Miller’s Marvels

ME AND MY RESTO  
Alan Plowman rescued this rotten 1983 XR2 and turned it into a show winner  
**WORDS & PICTURES** JAMES WALSHE  
![XR2](https://images.bauerhosting.com/marketing/sites/17/2025/01/xr2.png)  
**W**hen you spend each day painting other people’s cars, you spend much of your life going to shows and seeing classics that you’ve painted – but never ever your own! I thought it was time I did my own car for a change, so this Fiesta was my first personal resto project. I’ve always been proud of doing a good job when it comes to paint – but nothing compares to the feeling you get when it’s a car that belongs to you!  
Here in the far north of Scotland, you’re not exactly spoilt for choice with any kind of classic when the nearest big town is four hours to the south. The priority was sourcing a Fiesta with a complete interior and decent mechanical parts. It wouldn’t have mattered how shabby the body was since I knew I’d be able to sort even the worst rust, but finding bits of trim for instance… it has become a challenge on cars of this era.  
In 2018, I stumbled over a rusty 1983 XR2 in Wick. It had been off the road for a decade or so, but it started and ran, and the interior was complete. I bought it but then the pandemic hit, and I was back to doing other people’s cars again! It sat there until two years ago, which is when I began the resto.  
I put the car on a spit, blasted it and discovered that while there were areas I was able to do myself, I had some help from my friend Nick Manson. He’s better at fabricating than I am and having painted his Ford Thames a while back, he was happy to assist. The shell was full of patches, so I cut out the bad parts of the floors, sills, boot, scuttle panel and front wings and while Nick fabricated some of the trickier areas, I sourced replacement panels for others. The sunroof is double skinned, so the frame had to come out – getting it back in wasn’t fun but managed after some long evenings!  
![XR2 Shell](https://images.bauerhosting.com/marketing/sites/17/2025/01/xr2-2.png)**AS FOUND** The Fiesta had been gathering dust in a barn for ten years, so the shell presented some challenges to Alan when he began working on it.  
**Under the bonnet**  
The engine had done around 100,000 miles and was running, but I decided to re-bore it and fit new pistons, while all the bearings were replaced and the valve seats hardened to take modern fuel. It was all familiar territory – my dad was a mechanic so I spent a lot of my youth tinkering with engines. In the end, I fell into working with the bodywork side of things more in my career – I just preferred it. My first job was at a local Ford garage so, in painting my Fiesta, this was the easiest part for me. I was still a bit paranoid though! I tend to use Novol products, so on went the epoxy primer, then the filler which I carefully did after work over the course of a few weeks. I went for metallic Caspian Blue with Ford’s trademark pinstripe.  
The only big change I made inside was in finding a replacement for the cracked original dash. It was so satisfying to put it all back together again and then hit the road for the first time. I’ve definitely caught the resto bug! I like an XR2 MkII, so I'm considering one as my next project – but only if I have time. Cars aren’t a priority for me – my main hobby is playing the bagpipes!  
![Cabin](https://images.bauerhosting.com/marketing/sites/17/2025/01/xr2-3.png)**INTERIOR** Alan’s mission was to find a car as complete as could be – which included the cabin. Fiesta interior trim is difficult to find, and he didn’t want the headache of searching for missing bits of plastic. ‘I didn’t mind how rusty the car was – that was the least of my worries!’  
![XR2](https://images.bauerhosting.com/marketing/sites/17/2025/01/xr2-4.png)**BODYWORK** Paintwork is Alan’s forte. Once the floors, sills and front wings among other areas had been cut out, fabricated and welded, a typically thorough amount of prep took place from Alan before he lavished the Fiesta with its metallic Caspian Blue paint job. It’s among the best we’ve ever seen.  
![Engine](https://images.bauerhosting.com/marketing/sites/17/2025/01/xr2-5.png)**ENGINE** The XR2’s engine was running when Alan bought it, but he nevertheless wanted it to match the rest of the car, condition-wise. He rebored it, fitted new pistons, replaced all bearings and had the valve seats hardened for modern petrol.  
  
**ORIGINALITY** With so many Fiesta XR2s having suffered at the hands of boy racers in the Eighties and Nineties, Alan wanted to keep his car as original as possible.  
**TRIM** Fiesta trim, from door cards to window winders, isn’t all that easy to find these days, so Alan says it pays to find a project car that’s as complete as possible.  
![](https://images.bauerhosting.com/marketing/sites/17/2025/01/xr2-6.png)  
  
**Practical Classics Restorer of the Year 2025**  
![Restorer of the Year](https://images.bauerhosting.com/marketing/sites/17/2025/01/xr2-7.png)  
Alan is entered into the 2025 Restorer of the Year competition. You can vote for your favourite in a future issue of **Practical Classics** magazine.

‘I like cars almost as much as my bagpipes’

BUYER'S BRIEF  
How to buy one of the greatest British roadsters of all time…  
![Triumph TR6](https://images.bauerhosting.com/marketing/sites/17/2025/01/tr1.png)Square-jawed profile ushered the TR range into the Seventies.  
TR6 values may have plateaued, but they’re still quite high. As a result, you’ll be doing well to find anything decent for less than £15,000, while superb cars can command circa £22,500. TR6s with overdrive and a factory hardtop sell for a premium, with the best now as much as £26,000. All of these prices are for genuine righthand-drive cars; knock off around 15 per cent for US cars converted to right-hand drive. TR6s still to Federal spec are typically worth around 25 per cent less than an equivalent RHD examples.  
**Why you want one**  
Muscular styling, six cylinders, an indiscreet exhaust note and enough torque to make gear changing optional? That’s the TR6. It’s one of the true greats. Launched in 1969 as a re-skinned TR5, this was the last proper TR in the eyes of many and one of the last of the old-school British sportsters, too. It’s also technically intriguing because it was one of the first mass-produced cars to be offered with fuel injection. While the Lucas system would go on to gain the Triumph a reputation for being highly strung, it’s now easy to overcome any faults that the design originally highlighted. Supported by an army of specialists and catered for by numerous clubs, the TR6 is also an ideal way to enjoy many events throughout the year.  
With alternatives such as the TR5 and big ’Healey now priced out of reach of most, it’s the TR6 that offers the most affordable traditional British sports car thrills – unless you move down the ladder several rungs and buy something with just four cylinders. A well-sorted TR6 is unlikely to ever be worth less than what you paid for it, which is a bonus.  
![BODYWORK Corrosion can be found where panels meet here, with bodyshell flex causing trouble in seams in the rear deck.](https://images.bauerhosting.com/marketing/sites/17/2025/01/tr2.png)**BODYWORK** Corrosion can be found where panels meet here, with bodyshell flex causing trouble in seams in the rear deck.  
**The inspection**  
The TR6’s bodyshell can rust badly, so you need to scrutinise the whole structure and all panels. Starting at the front, the wings can corrode along the top and around the headlamps but you need to lift the bonnet to see the true extent of any potential rot. The base of each B-post can rot where it meets the sill; the seatbelt mounting points’ proximity means that this is an automatic MOT failure. The doors rust along their base, as well as along the top edge, near the rubber weather seal. Also, check the sills and floorpan, which can both rust badly. Rot is also common in the rear deck; several panels meet here, and the multiple seams don’t help because the bodyshell flexes. The rear wings corrode around the wheelarch lips and aft of the rear wheels, while the spare wheel well is as rot prone as the base of each rear wing.  
The TR6 has a separate chassis, so spotting poorly repaired accident damage is easy. Chassis corrosion is also common; check the area just ahead of the rear wheels where the chassis members meet between a pair of bracing plates.  
These can rot so the trailing arm mountings are weakened. If there’s evidence of repairs here, check if the body has been removed for proper restoration. A seriously corrosion-weakened TR6 chassis will bend in the middle, so look for door gaps that open at the top. The only proper fix is chassis replacement or a body-off rebuild.  
![Engine](https://images.bauerhosting.com/marketing/sites/17/2025/01/tr3.png)**ENGINE** Don’t worry about oil leaks or let rattles at start up put you off – these engines are tough.  
Under the bonnet, the TR6’s straight-six will easily cover 120,000 miles with regular oil changes and proper servicing. Check for play in the crankshaft thrust washers by pushing and pulling on the bottom pulley. This is made easier by depressing and releasing the clutch – any detectable movement means that the thrust washers may have dropped out, which could scrap the engine. If the thrust washers are still in place, it’s possible to replace them with oversized ones, without having to remove the engine first. This engine is also famed for its oil leaks and rattles at start up. But these characteristics can be engineered out easily and cheaply. All parts are readily available and it’s an easy engine to re-build.  
Black exhaust smoke under load suggests that the fuel injection metering is running rich, with attendant steep fuel bills and premature bore wear. Other well-known injection problems involve difficult hot starting, fuel vaporisation and misfiring on startup – all easily fixed by yourself with ease or at little expense with a specialist. Parts are readily available either on an exchange basis or outright, too.  
All TR6s came with a four-speed manual gearbox… which isn’t always strong enough if the car has been driven hard on a regular basis. Worn layshaft bearings create a rumbling noise in the intermediate gears that disappears in top. It can also be identified when the car is stationary with the engine running by a hissing noise that disappears when the clutch is engaged. The cure is a gearbox rebuild. Overdrive faults are often down to easily fixed wiring problems. Look out for things like broken wires, dodgy relays or loose Lucas electrical connections. But it could be because the overdrive unit’s filter is clogged inside, or the solenoid has packed in.  
![Cabin](https://images.bauerhosting.com/marketing/sites/17/2025/01/tr4.png)**CABIN** Electrical system is pure Lucas, so many parts are common to other cars of the time.  
The TR6’s interior trim is straightforward, with everything available to buy new if required. Seams can give way in the seat trims and there’s a good chance that there’ll be a tear or two in either the seat covers or door panels. If you need to replace the former, they’re available from £350 per pair while a trim panel set costs from £300. The whole electrical system is Lucas, which means that many components are common to other cars of the period. It also means that they’re all available, which is just as well, as looms and connectors will potentially be giving problems by now. Sometimes only cleaning is required, but most parts are still available to buy new.  
Updating your TR6 has never been easier. Many owners opt to replace the Kenlowe fan that was a popular upgrade in the Nineties with a Revotec unit that sits behind the radiator, rather than in front of it. This has a much stronger mounting and has proved to be more reliable and efficient. Fitting drilled and grooved discs and four-pot calipers with uprated pads gives the pedal a much firmer feel and there’s less travel, too. Classic Driving Developments’s PAS kit includes a replacement steering rack and an extra pulley, which mounts onto the crankshaft pulley to drive the pump. It’s a pain to fit, but works brilliantly. The fuel system must be in good condition to get decent economy, so we suggest that you check and, if needed, replace the linkages, injectors, metering unit, fuel tank and fuel pressure regulator. You can also replace the Lucas petrol pump – which is prone to overheating – with a Bosch one. The original lever arm dampers are notorious for wearing. The key is to replace them with adjustable telescopic dampers. While you’re at it consider fitting adjustable front dampers.  
![Triumph TR6](https://images.bauerhosting.com/marketing/sites/17/2025/01/tr5.png)Angular ‘Kammback’ certainly cuts a dash.  
  
**WHAT TO PAY**  
**PROJECT** £7000-£12,000  
**GOOD** £13,000-£18,000  
**EXCELLENT** £18,000-£26,000  
**TECH SPEC**  
**ENGINE** 2498CC/6-CYL/OHV  
**POWER** 150BHP@5500RPM  
**TORQUE** 164LB FT@3500RPM  
**GEARBOX** 4-SPEED MANUAL + O/D   
**TOP SPEED** 119MPH  
**0-60MPH** 8.2SEC   
**ECONOMY** 21-28MPG  
  
**WHAT IT’S LIKE TO OWN**  
**Matt George** on what it’s like to live with a TR6…  
![Matt in a Triumph](https://images.bauerhosting.com/marketing/sites/17/2025/01/tr6.png)Always guaranteed to put a great big smile on our Matt’s face!.  
My dad has owned TRs since before I was born, while I’m now on my second TR6, having bought my first one in 2010. So, although I might be biased, believe me when I say that if you’re looking for that classic British roadster experience, you won’t go far wrong with one of these.  
I’ve been all around Europe in mine and, thanks to that combo of torquey straightsix engine and overdrive gearbox, the ‘6 is equally at home cruising down the peage or autoroute as it is when being hustled up and over a mountain pass.  
While values have slowly risen over the past decade, the TR6 is still attainable, too. UK-spec cars with Lucas fuel injection will always hold a decent premium over US-spec versions running on carburettors, but the latter can also make a lot of sense if you’re on a tighter budget and are in a position to take on a project. I did the same back in 2017, buying a cheap ex-US example and slowly restoring it over two years, which spread the costs out and meant I could get back into a TR6 that way, whereas I would have struggled to get the money together in one go for a UK car that was ready to rock and roll immediately.  
Club and specialist support is excellent, while most parts are relatively inexpensive and widely available, too. So, what are you waiting for!  
  
**USEFUL CONTACTS**  
**TR Register,** :a[tr-register.co.uk]{href='https://tr-register.co.uk' }  
**Triumph Sports Six Club,** :a[tssc.org.uk]{href='https://tssc.org.uk' }  
**Club Triumph,** :a[Club.triumph.org.uk]{href='https://Club.triumph.org.uk' }

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